1976 280Z Restoration Project

[wheee!]

Yes, there is a constant 12v from ignition source, then a ground trigger and a third constant ground to manifold. That seems right as I remember. I have heard nothing but good feedback on these COPs and I like their small footprint and the added security of a bolt. Some are just friction fit which is a no go for me.

[wheee!]

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

That was my point in post #2456.  Your Haltech might have its own "igniters".  If it does you don't need an extra one on the coil.  You might be redundancing.

Many ways to get it done.  The manufacturers' reasons for doing things are usually focused on ease of manufacturing and packaging parts.

You could probably cut the ends off of the coils you have and make them smaller.  That long tube probably just has a wire inside with a clip on the end.  It's a solid plug wire.

Haltech does not incorporate the igniters in the computer. Massive source of headaches for the Megasquirt daughterboard dudes. Igniters on the Coil is the best method. I am okay with the length of the COP boots for now. It put the COPs away from the dipstick and the heater lines.

Edited March 4, 2019 by wheee!
clarity

[wheee!]

and @Zed Head, I do appreciate your input! As usual it brings up the not so obvious points that sometimes need to be mentioned and addressed.

[Hodgimus-maximus]

you can buy a small igniter box from efi source that allows you to use dumb coils while retaining fully sequential firing.

[wheee!]

Yes, this is true. But now you have another box and more wires. This method I’m going with will be cleaner and simpler. And even less costly I believe.

[wheee!]

Let's throw another log on this fire. 

This drawing has another method of securing the COPs. The folded metal plate will have two hole of different diameters to secure the top and bottom of the COP head along with a riv nut to to bolt the head down to the top plate. @ConVerTT is going to look at this and determine if this is a feasible design. He may do a folded bottom with a dimpled hole to secure the bottom of the COP without having to do an air channel. More to come as we finesse the crap outta this....

[wheee!]

Part of the fun in adding custom components like A/C is fabbing the mounts etc for the controls. I used part of the bracket from the original controls to create a solid mount for the new ones. I used a piece of aluminum plate to create the backing plate. 

It is also removable and mounts to the dash so the front console piece can be removed without disturbing the controls.

I will cut the controls in later and powder coat the plate. 

[wheee!]

Waiting for a new seal for the output shaft and a new shift fork boot to come and then the 5 spd is good to go!

Powder coated the fork chrome for fun!

 

[wheee!]

Powder coated the intake too! Not perfect as there was a little off gassing in the oven causing some pitting. But overall I’m  happy. 

 

[wal280z]

16 hours ago, wheee! said:

Part of the fun in adding custom components like A/C is fabbing the mounts etc for the controls. I used part of the bracket from the original controls to create a solid mount for the new ones. I used a piece of aluminum plate to create the backing plate. 

It is also removable and mounts to the dash so the front console piece can be removed without disturbing the controls.

 

Are you using something off the shelf, recycle from the junkyard or custom "by Mark"?

Years ago I found a 95 Maxima head-unit that fits in the 'green space' in the picture above https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88182-alternate-hvac-controls-in-a-280/ . Never got to wiring it up.... YET... your thread has given me alot of encouragement...

[wheee!]

I am not that creative really... I am using the horizontal dial controls from Vintage Air.

The slider controls are too tall to fit in the space properly and just didn't work. I know another member has reworked the factory control panel to work with the Vintage Air sliders, but, like I said, I'm not that creative.

 I did get a little funky with the bracketry though. I wanted to make sure that the front access panel could bolt off and on without hindrance and that the A/C controls stayed put. I also wanted to be able to remove them from the dash to facilitate wiring etc. In doing this, I cut up the metal mounting frame from the stock unit to give me the proper bolt locations and then tweaked the design in order to support the "green" plate properly and securely. Basically two bolts secure the green plate in place along with the supports, so it can be quickly removed from the dash assembly if needed.

Edited March 6, 2019 by wheee!

[wal280z]

9 minutes ago, wheee! said:

I am not that creative really... I am using the horizontal dial controls from Vintage Air.

 I did get a little funky with the bracketry though. I wanted to make sure that the front access panel could bolt off and on with hindrance and that the A/C controls stayed put. I also wanted to be able to remove them from the dash to facilitate wiring etc. In doing this, I cut up the metal mounting frame from the stock unit to give me the proper bolt locations and then tweaked the design in order to support the "green" plate properly and securely. Basically two bolts secure the green plate in place along with the supports, so it can be quickly removed from the dash assembly if needed.

No worries - I attempted the Maxima control unit and welded some brackets (big BOOGER welds, not proud of those) to attach as you mention above. It LOOKS like it belongs (not like the 1985 Mazda neon orange control unit I thought would work) inside the bezel.