12 hours ago, wheee! said:

A little more time in the shop tonight. Finished the hood primer and half of the hatch! One fender and the outer side of the hatch left!

Do the fenders have much adjustability?  I need to put a new one on soon;

Minimal

1 hour ago, ramsesosirus said:

Do the fenders have much adjustability?  I need to put a new one on soon;

 

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

Minimal

As Patcon said, minimal. I ended up buying a new driver side fender from Nissan (which fits good) a few years ago and then tried to reuse the passenger side. It was too far off to mount properly without a lot of cutting and welding around the headlight bucket, so luckily another used fender appeared courtesy of  @ConVerTT  and I was able to get it to fit very well. It is a Taiwanese re-stamp. New ones vary in the width of the bowing out from the centre line it seems and can be massaged back into line. I find that all panels need some sort of massaging....

1 hour ago, wheee! said:

 

As Patcon said, minimal. I ended up buying a new driver side fender from Nissan (which fits good) a few years ago and then tried to reuse the passenger side. It was too far off to mount properly without a lot of cutting and welding around the headlight bucket, so luckily another used fender appeared courtesy of  @ConVerTT  and I was able to get it to fit very well. It is a Taiwanese re-stamp. New ones vary in the width of the bowing out from the centre line it seems and can be massaged back into line. I find that all panels need some sort of massaging....

Ok, thanks.  I have found an old used 240z one.  Need to fill the molding holes.

Hopefully this massaging will have a happy ending!

Keep in mind the holes for the "DATSUN" and "280Z" logos are identical on the fenders through all production runs...

23 minutes ago, wheee! said:

Keep in mind the holes for the "DATSUN" and "280Z" logos are identical on the fenders through all production runs...

Thanks, good to know, I actually did wonder that.  So that means the 280z emblem will cover all the "Datsun" holes I assume?  I'd prefer to just fill the upper molding holes and leave the emblem ones, my 280z emblems just mount with mounting tape, not sure if some used pegs...  should I weld em or fill em with filler?  I heard welding might distort the thin metal... 

22 minutes ago, ramsesosirus said:

Thanks, good to know, I actually did wonder that.  So that means the 280z emblem will cover all the "Datsun" holes I assume?  I'd prefer to just fill the upper molding holes and leave the emblem ones, my 280z emblems just mount with mounting tape, not sure if some used pegs...  should I weld em or fill em with filler?  I heard welding might distort the thin metal... 

The pins fit identical. No need to worry about covering them. You can tape over the holes with 3M mounting tape and not worry about welding or filling them in. They will be sealed and primed and should not rust any faster with the tape over them. That way you can change you mind later. Also, in Canada, we can still buy the 280Z fender emblems new for about $30 US... Can't get the DATSUN fender emblems new from the dealer anymore though.

If there are holes in the fender from a rub rail, weld them shut. Do not use filler! It won't stay and can absorb moisture and rust. If they are only under the emblem follow Whee!s advise. Just prime, paint and cover over them

If there are holes in the fender from a rub rail, weld them shut. Do not use filler! It won't stay and can absorb moisture and rust. If they are only under the emblem follow Whee!s advise. Just prime, paint and cover over them

What about soldering the molding holes shut? Might be better than welding.

I don't know if you can do it with out some form of flux and I would be worried about not getting all of that clean before paint. I know brazing use to cause issues under paint and I suspect it might be for a similar reason. You know you have so many hours into a panel to make it right and get it painted, that i don't like to take chances on a paint failure. I get more jealous of my time every year because I can see the "bottom of the bucket"

You could always take it to a welder to stitch close if a person didn't own a welder. If you lay wet rags around the holes, there should be almost no distortion.

Well that’s it! All the epoxy primer is laid on and the fun can begin! Next to finish sand the interior panel bits and flanges and lay down some colour.

13 hours ago, wheee! said:

What about soldering the molding holes shut? Might be better than welding.

I've read that soldering them is the ideal solution, like plumbing solder, not the small electrical type.  The metal is so thin on these I'd hate to ruin it.