1976 280Z Restoration Project

[240260280]

2 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

Many years ago, when I bought my barn find 260 and turned it into an endurance racer, I knew that I needed good wipers for wet races.  I took everything apart and cleaned the wiper joints, spindles, and motor.  I don't remember at the time what lube I used in the joints, but whatever it was, that car had the best wipers of any Z I've ever owned.  As part of the process, I did rewire the motor with heavy gauge wire and put them through a relay to a simple toggle switch since I only wanted high speed.  Everything worked great for about 5 years until we had a race that had non-stop rain.  The wipers worked great for about 4 hours and then I'm guessing the linkage got sticky and overheated the motor blowing the fuse. 

Does anybody know what the best grease/lube would be for the linkage joints that will last for many years without getting sticky or washing away?  Getting the linkages out was not easy, so had my car been a pristine car like Mark's, I wouldn't want to have to snake them out more than once.  In my case, it's not a big deal if I scatch something getting them out and back in, but I'd love to know what other people do with nice cars.  

Urea based greases are used in many high-temp applications.

Perhaps put a circuit breaker in your dash so that if it overheats again, you can let it cool and re-set the breaker.

[Jeff G 78]

24 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

Urea based greases are used in many high-temp applications.

Perhaps put a circuit breaker in your dash so that if it overheats again, you can let it cool and re-set the breaker.

Because the linkages are in a dirty area, I'd be scared that any grease could attract dirt and make a sludge in the joints.

The circuit breaker is a great idea.  Much easier than changing a fuse mid-race.

[wheee!]

Wrapping the Haltech harness in proper loom tape. Almost a Velcro feel with a slight adhesive. Works great!

[240260280]

Glad to help. Some options:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=11426

https://www.amazon.com/Five-Oceans-Terminal-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00JBL43MA?th=1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Marine-Race-Rally-Motorsport-Circuit-Breaker-Blade-Fuse-/301069113114

 

 

[wheee!]

Maybe send the off topic info by PM... this thread is already bulging at the seams...!


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[wheee!]

COP harness complete!




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[wheee!]

So who here isn’t colour blind? I think I might be. This is the wiring harness for the Haltech fuel Injection. All wires are blue with a stripe. Cylinder one is solid blue and cylinder five is black stripe.
The remaining four wires striped brown, red, orange and yellow. See the pic below. Left to right as described above.



Or is it striped Orange, red brown and yellow???? Again left to right.


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[gwri8]

I think you are correct on your first line up, but I have a lot of trouble calling that an orange tone....jeez,  it seems like it was just a different lot # on the yellow run.

[wheee!]

Yup. I will have to pin the harness with the meter to be sure.


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[Av8ferg]

I’m not color blind and get color tested every 6 months for work, this is a tough one. Using the process of elimination. The far right must be yellow. The second from left has to be red. This leaves brown and orange. With that I would say far left is brown making the final one orange even though it doesn’t look it. It looks a slightly golden yellow color. Colors can be weird when you put them next to each other. It’s always best to look at them with a totally white background individually. You will probably pick up the undertones you need if you do that vs setting them side-by-side.
Might need to test the wires. Try the white background, you might have luck. Post pics with white background and we can help.


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[240260280]

I see orange or brown, red, yellow, yellow..... looks like the error is two yellows... you will have to get schematic and trace/sound-out.

Here is enhanced photo:

[grannyknot]

My take from left to right is, orange/brown, red, traditional yellow and the far right is the recently popular neon yellow/green that you see everywhere these days, I guess you could call it "safety yellow".