1976 280Z Restoration Project

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Some progress pics finally:....

 

Bumper and lights removed

 

 

Nice rust free spare area!

 

 

Front grill out!

 

 

Rad out (yes I drained it first....)

 

 

Engine and tranny coming out!

 

 

Empty bay!

 

 

The coolant is what drained out of the block when I lifted it.... yuck....

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Here's a shot of the drain I put in to stop the garage from flooding...

 

[Zed Head]

Does anyone have experience with the 11mm Pallnet fuel rail on our stock intacke manifold? I am interested in using the o-ring style rail to clean things up and I have heard that the Toyota 11mm injectors will work.... any feedback?

 

part number 23250 45011, low ohms, 190cc

Yes, I have a setup with 14mm o-ring injectors.  Bosch 280 150 901. I only picked them because I was trying to solve the heat-soak problem and wanted a different nozzle style (whole other story). They work  just like the originals essentially, although I think mine were a little bit richer than the stock Nissan injectors, but I'm not sure since I was between emissions test, and changed AFM's in between also.  Mine are high impedance and may open quicker than the low impedance, causing more fuel at idle.  Don't know for sure, just a fine detail.  I had to lower the fuel pressure to pass (I have an adjustable FPR).  I'm not sure the 188 and 190cc numbers are 100% accurate either.  Most of the flow rate numbers come from the same web site - Stan Weiss's for example - and there seems to be some variation between spreadsheets.  So, I would recommend an adustable FPR, or to be ready to get an adjustable FPR, in case you do end up on the rich side.

 

Pallnet does good work and will probably send everything you need, or at least recommend what you need.  He's sold many.  Besides mounting, you have to get the seal right at the manifold.  I just stacked two o-rings at the base of mine, because that gave the proper insertion of the nozzle in to the manifold and sealed well.  But I built my own rail, and my own mounting system.

 

Otherwise, it's a simple swap, just a few odds and ends that you have to take care of.  I think that Pallnet is the one that found the Toyota injectors but I haven't seen that anyone's actually used them.  But if the flow rate is close, it should be easy to tune them in.  But it may not be a swap and go operation.

 

Looks like they flow 177, so assuming they open and close the same, you might be fine or just need a potentiometer on the coolant circuit to tweak them in.

 

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

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I received a note back from JavelinZ on HybridZ that built his own rail using the above mentioned injectors He said they worked perfect, like stock on his 11mm rail.

 

Pallnet has indeed quoted me all I need for the fuel rail and I have sourced an adjustable FPR and pressure gauge so I should be good to go on this when I'm ready. Thanks for all the feedback!

[Patcon]

I am surprised you didn't pull the shifter before removing the engine. It makes it easier to get the chunk out without damaging anything.

 

I love the 6" trench drain. The metal grate is nice too. Looks good

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I am surprised you didn't pull the shifter before removing the engine. It makes it easier to get the chunk out without damaging anything.

I love the 6" trench drain. The metal grate is nice too. Looks good

I was hoping no one noticed the shifter...

I was wondering why it was being stubborn! In the end a little push down on the tranny and it came out with no issues. Didn't catch anything other than the shifter opening in the tunnel.

The drain is awesome as my driveway slopes down about four feet to the garage. Now all the water stays out of the garage.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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The car is booked in for a frame alignment check and repair (if needed). No desire to weld in new floors to a crooked frame!

 

Now to just find the time to finish stripping the body down!

[Patcon]

I did the same thing with the car I am doing. It was surprising how far the body was off when they got it on the frame rack. A few hours later and it was all good. Do you have the factory dimensions for the frame shop? Many frame shops don't have them. I believe I have them for the 240 but I don't know how different they are from your car. I have done the same thing with the shifter before which is probably why I noticed. When I tipped it down to clear a lot of the gear oil ended on the floor. I think I said something ugly about then...

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! It was mostly engine coolant that graced my garage floor... All clean now though.

I have the FSM specs for the frame and the frame shop assured me they had the specs in their frame computer too. Hope it isn't too bad. I can't see any frame impact damage other than a small dent/bent in the front cross member under the rad. Looks like the PO hit a large rock...

Sad part is the frame service will be about $300 and the towing cost around $500.... :shakes head:

Tow service here is not cheap.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

[Patcon]

I had a trailer and the car stripped probably only weighs 300-400 lbs. 4 of us moved it by hand to the frame rack. Like $200 to pull the frame.

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Unfortunately I have to take the car into Edmonton as the local shops won't touch it. 33km one way. As the car is still on it's running gear, I think I will rent a dolly and tow it myself.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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More disassembly last night.... Got the doors and quarter glass out, removed the wipers and cowl, started removing the fenders. Removed a lot of the interior rear trim as well as the remaining scraps of carpet and vinyl.

I had no idea our doors were that heavy!! Seems disproportional somehow...

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....