I don't believe their is a "window" for the topcoat with the water based paint.

I know this thread long and great but I was reading through it again that raised a question. Being new at actually restoring a z car then was some discussion that alluded to sheet metal parts (fenders) available from Nissan in Canada. Is that correct?

Back to focus on the current thread but a simple yes or no would appreciated.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

11 hours ago, wheee! said:

I don't believe their is a "window" for the topcoat with the water based paint.

i would think that you would want to topcoat asap just to avoid any contaminants (dust etc) from getting on the base

I know this thread long and great but I was reading through it again that raised a question. Being new at actually restoring a z car then was some discussion that alluded to sheet metal parts (fenders) available from Nissan in Canada. Is that correct?

Back to focus on the current thread but a simple yes or no would appreciated.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yes. Many parts including fenders are (were) available when I ordered one two years ago. Canada for some reason has more items than the US... I ordered new fender emblems for example for under $50 each!

i would think that you would want to topcoat asap just to avoid any contaminants (dust etc) from getting on the base

I agree. This particular situation with the test fender is merely for colour, not quality so I am not too concerned. The real parts and chassis will be all done in the flash times for that reason.

Couldn't resist...

Sprayed the remaining three colours last night. Got the gun pressure dialled in and used the 3M PPS cups like I should have the first time. Paint went on smooth and blem free like expected. Painted three coats plus a fan coat at the end. Let the paint flash dry on each between coats. Wiped the panel down and shot two passes of lacquer clear coat with a 15 minute flash time between each. Will post more pics in sunlight when I get a chance. The clear needs sanding and buffing too. I will do this for practice and also to make the colours pop the most. Clear is still wet in these pics.

I'm liking this, 

For what it's worth, the green on the nose/front of the fender is the "best". The dark one next.

Just say NO to anything turquiosy...

30 minutes ago, zKars said:

I'm liking this, 

For what it's worth, the green on the nose/front of the fender is the "best". The dark one next.

Just say NO to anything turquiosy...

Thanks for the feedback Jim!

I agree... the nose colour is very attractive. The original 240 green is a close second. However, the wife has the final say and she wanted dark green....

Have to see what she says when she sees them. She might want more samples....

Maybe it's the lighting, but your 235 looks very much like my 240?  It looks like it has more depth. Direct sunlight makes a huge difference with metallic paint and that will be the tell of the tale.

Couple of comparison photos for you.

3 hours ago, wheee! said:

lacquer clear coat

Are you running traditional lacquer as a finished top coat or catalyzed clear coat?

29 minutes ago, gwri8 said:

Maybe it's the lighting, but your 235 looks very much like my 240?  It looks like it has more depth. Direct sunlight makes a huge difference with metallic paint and that will be the tell of the tale.

I like your green very much, but it is the lightest version of 240 green I have ever seen... Again, mine is a water based mix so that may have some play here but I'm not sure. It DOES look very close to the 2335 on the nose of the fender (to which I am partial) The other colours I sprayed look nothing like their paint chip samples either!