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1976 280Z Restoration Project


wheee!

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I was almost positive there was only one gasket and it was on the back side of the vibrating plate thingy. To be sure I took the cover of one of my spares and took some photos.

 

My gaskets were pretty sad too. I made new ones out of the thinest gasket paper I could find in that tan colour. Measured it with the calipers and it was 0.25mm.

 

If you need anymore info just ask, glad to help.

 

BTW: They sound awful without the paper. Thicker paper might alter the soaund too.

post-25317-0-22748600-1440495075_thumb.j

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Mine is an early model, 9/75 so I think it matches the position from Hazmatt's thread, along the crossmember.

 

post-29861-14150828554825.jpg

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

great pic - love the dollies, must be nice to roll her around in the garage.

just a thought, might want to slap a diagonal on the sides or some plywood just in case - it would be a major drag to see that body come down, especially on it's owner!

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sorry! That pic is from Hazmatt's Rustoration thread. It was showing the front crossmember horn locations only. Mine is still in a more, ahem, "rugged" condition as of yet....!

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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I was almost positive there was only one gasket and it was on the back side of the vibrating plate thingy. To be sure I took the cover of one of my spares and took some photos.

My gaskets were pretty sad too. I made new ones out of the thinest gasket paper I could find in that tan colour. Measured it with the calipers and it was 0.25mm.

If you need anymore info just ask, glad to help.

BTW: They sound awful without the paper. Thicker paper might alter the soaund too.

Once again, thanks Chas! I will see what I can find. I'm sure I have some gasket paper around somewhere. Also need to replace half the screws. Mine were extremely tight and the Phillips head couldn't take the torque. I would rather replace them with Allen head screws or Torx but don't want it to be obvious....

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Edited by wheee!
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Seriously? You're worried about changing from Philips to Allen or torx on the horns because it might be "obvious"? Seriously? I know obvious (obviously) and that's not obvious.

 

Haha! That said, if I ever, ever, ever see your car, that's one of the first things I'm going to check for. :) You better thank your lucky stars that I'm not a show judge.

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Seriously? You're worried about changing from Philips to Allen or torx on the horns because it might be "obvious"? Seriously? I know obvious (obviously) and that's not obvious.

 

Haha! That said, if I ever, ever, ever see your car, that's one of the first things I'm going to check for. :) You better thank your lucky stars that I'm not a show judge.

 

LOL

 

I suppose you're right! But it is the same thing for finding SAE bolts and nuts on the car; it drives me crazy! I really hate philips head screws in hi torque uses tho. Invariably they will strip.... and if a show judge ever sees my car, the last thing that will get noticed that is not period correct will be the horn screws LOL

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I like those yellow Philips screws!

 

They look like they did a pretty job on the repair though.

 

I haven't seen the extent of the repairs but there does appear to be a lot of bondo on the panels. I am hoping the future bodywork I have to do will be minimal. I will repair any bad welds and sheet metal work as I go....

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That concave area can be hard to get really smooth with a weld joint there. Not saying this is the case but what looks like a lot of filler can just be a really wide thin layer. I am ok with thin layers. If it starts getting thick, that is where the problems come in. If you have ever seen shows cars get skimmed and blocked they look like they haves tons of filler but it is really pretty thin but it makes the panels soooo straight... B)  

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