I have a motor off the kids Power Wheels truck that might work. I can use my variable bench power supply to control it.

11 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Ummmmm... Site, I'm thinking that's not the author he was talking about.   

Found this paper from 1979, which already seems long ago (looks like a typewriter was used, a mechanical one,), about happenings in 1879.  Electrical mysteries.  Not the original author re zKar's post, just a similar vein.

http://www.physics.utah.edu/~lebohec/P5510/References/Discovery_of_Hall_effect.pdf

Saw post this morning on FB from OneSix Industries about a new product

 

I’ll put the text here for those of you wise enough to be staying away from FB....

‘Datsun A-Series CAS ready for testing.  This uses a 24-1 trigger wheel and a high speed ZF Hall Sensor.   This will also be available for FJ20 engines, a good alternative to the 35 year old OEM distributors.   Finished product will have a hard black anodised cap.  Inbox me if you would like to know more!“

Mostly wanted to point out the shift to Hall sensors.....

Edited July 26, 20204 yr by zKars

Tim has suggested I cut a tooth off the wheel If I can’t get a good voltage signal. I have also just received some resistors that are recommended I install in line to improve signal quality. I haven’t had a lot of time to play with the car lately.

Been busy with summer stuff, BUT.... I did receive the new PWM modules to repair the led dash lights. Full dimming and off capability again. Much better units. No pics of the install as it was tight quarters in the dash area.
I also received the third set of seat heaters and finally got all the pieces as ordered. Yeeesh. Now I have fully functioning heated seats! Yay!

Here is the PWM I ordered from Amazon. It is small and easily adapted to mounting behind the stock dimmer shaft and connecting via rubber tube for flex and smooth operation. 
 

Would you have install pics? Thanks.

Further back in the thread I have some pics of the older bulkier model I installed. Not a lot but the basic idea is to re-use the dimmer knob you have by removing the rheostat on the back end, attach a small bracket at the end of the dash metal behind the stock shaft and join the two with a section of rubber tube to create a soft join that flexes and absorbs torque.
Here’s a pic of the old unit installed before it failed due to a short I accidentally created at the glove box.

The new unit sits perfect all by itself on the bracket.

This is the schematic of the wiring courtesy of the immortal [mention]Captain Obvious [/mention]

 

Well, back on the Z this week.
Installed the 5.1k and 6.8k resistors but no joy. Got in touch with Tim Heilbloom from OneSix and we decided to cut off one tooth for a 24-1 configuration (still sequential). No joy.
Now I am working with negative voltage values to get spark and synch under 300 rpm. This is a process.....

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