wheee! Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share #721 Posted March 15, 2016 Found this pic in my files of the floor pan and tunnel area differences. The 280 has a noticeably smaller seat mount set on the driver side to accommodate the bulge in the trans tunnel. Charlie Osborne was unaware of it and is requesting a paper template to correct the metal forms for his floor pans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted March 15, 2016 Share #722 Posted March 15, 2016 Aircraft stripper recommends paint thinner for neutralization. It is very aggressive still. We stripped Cody's 510 hood with it and you could watch the paint release. I cant find the pictures I took. The paint bubbles and releases as you watch it. 3 layers of paint off half the hood in about 10 minutes, done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksechler Posted March 16, 2016 Share #723 Posted March 16, 2016 18 hours ago, Patcon said: Aircraft stripper recommends paint thinner for neutralization. It is very aggressive still. We stripped Cody's 510 hood with it and you could watch the paint release. I cant find the pictures I took. The paint bubbles and releases as you watch it. 3 layers of paint off half the hood in about 10 minutes, done... Yep, it makes noise too. I sat down to take a break and have a beer one evening after putting it on the hood. I could hear the paint popping as it bubbled up. It will also rust the metal if you leave it on. You need to score the paint, apply the stripper, drink a beer, remove the paint and stripper and then wipe with paint thinner. It's a same day treatment... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 16, 2016 Share #724 Posted March 16, 2016 Effectiveness of the strippers would depend on the type of paint being stripped. A 2K urethane repaint won't come off like an old 70's era original coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted March 16, 2016 Share #725 Posted March 16, 2016 Worn out paint strips easier but I haven't come across anything it won't strip yet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff G 78 Posted March 17, 2016 Share #726 Posted March 17, 2016 On 3/15/2016 at 2:12 PM, wheee! said: Found this pic in my files of the floor pan and tunnel area differences. The 280 has a noticeably smaller seat mount set on the driver side to accommodate the bulge in the trans tunnel. Charlie Osborne was unaware of it and is requesting a paper template to correct the metal forms for his floor pans. Racers are all too aware of the 260/280 floorpan hump on the driver's side. We have to cut the hump out to fit a race seat lower than the stock seat. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share #727 Posted March 17, 2016 So i wonder, should I bother replicating it or remove it and merely extend the seat brackets? Basically extend the sheet metal up the tunnel. I assume it is there to accommodate a resonation pipe/cat in the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff G 78 Posted March 17, 2016 Share #728 Posted March 17, 2016 It depends how original you want it and which is easier to form. You can either shape the replacement floor pan to fit the 280 tunnel or shape the tunnel like the 240 to better fit the floor pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share #729 Posted March 17, 2016 Shaping the tunnel would be easier at this point. I don't think it would be hard to extend the seat rails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted March 17, 2016 Share #730 Posted March 17, 2016 26 minutes ago, wheee! said: Shaping the tunnel would be easier at this point. I don't think it would be hard to extend the seat rails. Easier yes. The tunnel is thinner material than Charley's floors but are you going to lose needed clearance for the exhaust? Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted March 17, 2016 Share #731 Posted March 17, 2016 Shape the floor pan. It's easy to do. Make a series of cuts in to the floor pan about every 2", closer where a tight radius is needed. Take a heel dolly and round the floor pan to it turn up where needed. Zip screw it in place. Take a body saw or cut off tool and cut the tunnel and floor pan in one pass. Tack it in place and form some more with a heel dolly. weld it all up... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share #732 Posted March 17, 2016 So much good info from all of you. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarb
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