So it turns out the set of bad dog frame rails I had lined up fell through... won't be ready (off the donor car) in time.
Has anyone used the new bad dog rails on top of the Zedd Findings pans and rails in a 76?
The floor and rail contour seem all wrong... my rails are flat on the driver side and offset height on the passenger side.

The bad dog rails seem to be identical and therefore only good for the driver side. Even then, the dissimilar height throughout the length of the frame rail is not compatible with the contour of my floor pans...

Thoughts??
I'm thinking I might just have to fab my own "connecting plates" from the new front frame rails to the floor pan rails.

This shows the ridge along the passenger side.

Mark, if you do make your own connecting plates I can talk you through it if you like, it's pretty simple but there are a few little tricks that will make it pro looking. PM me if you are interested.

Oooooooo! Intrigue!

Some more rust repair...

Some more new metal in the shock tower.


Roughed in fairly well for now. Will clean it up more later... time for a beer!

'Red Racer' IPA recommended, if you can get it in your area.  Comes from Surrey, BC.

For those following the thread and wanting to know the procedure to use to make the joining sections between front frame rails and floor pan rail, this is the info from Chris (grannyknot).

Get yourself one of those big family sized boxes of breakfast cereal, the box is what you want, the card board is perfect for templates, the first template you want to make all your mistakes on so fold it, cut it, tape it back together until you have the basic shape of the piece that will join the T/C box to the rail, transfer that on to a fresh piece of cardboard and make all the final adjustment it until it fits perfectly(you may or may not be able to use that template for the other side but just focus on one side at a time) Lay that template out on the sheet metal that you will make the final piece from, those rails were made out of 18ga I believe by Nissan so take the opportunity to go a little thicker, I use 12-13ga, cut the piece out with a thin cut off wheel attached to your right angle grinder then transfer the lines for the folds onto the metal piece. Now if you don't have a sheetmetal break for bending you can get excellent results by using that same thin cutoff blade and carefully run the angle grinder up those foldlines, not too deep, about 1mm, that will ensure that the metal folds perfectly on those lines and give you a clean bend.

After you have fitted the piece so that it fits perfectly and just before welding it in place you are going to run a stitch weld up those folds on the inside, that will give you the strongest dam corner you could want and you should be able to use that area as a jacking point in the future.

Thanks Chris!!

Picked up some AN6 fittings along with 3m of steel reinforced rubber gas line for the fuel rail.


The fuel rail was shipped last week so I am expecting it in the mail today! I'll get pics when it arrives.

Very excited to have received my Pallnet fuel rail! This is going to look awesome on the engine!

Kind of like this ?!


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Nice! My intake is a bit more modified, but that looks great!