rossiz Posted February 16, 2015 Share #37 Posted February 16, 2015 oh god, you're killing me! that looks sooooo nice...i'm in a bit of a holding pattern because my re-build project is being "trickle-funded" and other expenses have reduced that trickle to a slow, sporadic drip... i've been looking around for machine shops here in seattle that are L6 savvy, i'm open to any recommendations. back to siteunseen's thread though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share #38 Posted February 16, 2015 oh god, you're killing me! that looks sooooo nice...i'm in a bit of a holding pattern because my re-build project is being "trickle-funded" and other expenses have reduced that trickle to a slow, sporadic drip... i've been looking around for machine shops here in seattle that are L6 savvy, i'm open to any recommendations. back to siteunseen's thread though...Oh he's killing me too! but in a good way. I like to have something to shoot for. Guy, what head gasket's do you use and do have a preference on fuel pumps? Thanks,Cliff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diseazd Posted February 16, 2015 Share #39 Posted February 16, 2015 Cliff.....I use a Nissan P79 head gasket. We drill out the orafice for the stock fuel pump and use the stock mechanical fuel pump. I always use the MSA turbo head bolts and the stock oil pump. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted February 16, 2015 Share #40 Posted February 16, 2015 Guy,that 79 looks great. What a good looking chamber . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diseazd Posted February 16, 2015 Share #41 Posted February 16, 2015 Thanks Steve......Z Doc builds a really nice head.....those stainless steel swirl valves look great don't they. Engines are a piece of art if done correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share #42 Posted February 17, 2015 All apart. My hands are hurting, can barely hold my coffee mug or type, but the interior of the motor looks great so I'm happy. Lesson learned yesterday, loosen the crank bolt BEFORE taking the transmission out, not too big a deal but more of a PITA that's not necessary. I put my N47 head on the 2.4 block and the exhaust valve just barely hits. They are swollen and curled up, kinda like these; I did some measuring for the block notching. It's .225" down to the top ring And .10" across to the edge of the fire ring Can I use my pulley with the A/C row removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop's Z Posted February 17, 2015 Share #43 Posted February 17, 2015 Last pic: Yes you can use your pulley with the A/C pulley removed. Cheers, Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 18, 2015 Share #44 Posted February 18, 2015 Those look like Hulk hands. Don't get angry! I had a thought on your copper spray question - better check the head for warpage. Copper spray = head gasket or head change = potential overheating = potential warpage. Although, since you're playing with the N47 head on the L24 block, it may not be relevant. Your title is "Rebuild" but it seems like you might be leaning toward "Performance build". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30Driver Posted February 18, 2015 Share #45 Posted February 18, 2015 Very nice progress & pix... except for the hands.Following with interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share #46 Posted February 18, 2015 Your title is "Rebuild" but it seems like you might be leaning toward "Performance build". When I went to work Monday and was telling the guys about how bad I felt they said "you mean that little orange car with the new wheels you's just down here in the other day? That's the one you've taken apart?" I sure hope it performs better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted February 18, 2015 Share #47 Posted February 18, 2015 Might consider doing the notching now while everything is clearly marked. Your piston rings and HG have left you a perfect guide or line to NOT PASS while you are grinding. You can lay the HG on the head and mark a center line for the valve centerline and transfer that to the block. This will show you where the the outer radius or edge of the valve will be. Grinding now before cleaning makes sense too. As far as grinding tools , I used a 60 grit drum sander on a dremmel. It is very controlable and takes material off slowly and smoothly. If it happens to jump around it won't gouge anything like a carbide bit will. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share #48 Posted February 18, 2015 I do want to do it before the machine shop get's it. I'll have those carbon lines and the honing of the bores will make sure everything smoothes together. I can't believe a dremel will cut that, amazing. I use the same thing on my dogs toe nails then the next day (after she get's over being pissed at me) I hit them again with 120 grit. Almost forgot that I've got a spare 2.4 block to practice with, it's never been cleaned either. Now I've got a plan. Gotta have a plan! I've decided to take the valves out of my E31 and try and polish it up some, you and Guy made me jealous, it'll help out my machinist too. The list gets longer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zKars
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