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'72 240Z Rebuild


siteunseen

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oh god, you're killing me! that looks sooooo nice...

i'm in a bit of a holding pattern because my re-build project is being "trickle-funded" and other expenses have reduced that trickle to a slow, sporadic drip...

 

i've been looking around for machine shops here in seattle that are L6 savvy, i'm open to any recommendations.

 

back to siteunseen's thread though...

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oh god, you're killing me! that looks sooooo nice...

i'm in a bit of a holding pattern because my re-build project is being "trickle-funded" and other expenses have reduced that trickle to a slow, sporadic drip...

 

i've been looking around for machine shops here in seattle that are L6 savvy, i'm open to any recommendations.

 

back to siteunseen's thread though...

Oh he's killing me too! but in a good way.  I like to have something to shoot for.

 

Guy, what head gasket's do you use and do have a preference on fuel pumps?

 

Thanks,

Cliff

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All apart.  My hands are hurting, can barely hold my coffee mug or type, but the interior of the motor looks great so I'm happy.  Lesson learned yesterday, loosen the crank bolt BEFORE taking the transmission out, not too big a deal but more of a PITA that's not necessary. 

 

I put my N47 head on the 2.4 block and the exhaust valve just barely hits.

 

They are swollen and curled up, kinda like these;

41fXAZENBZL.jpg

I did some measuring for the block notching.  It's .225" down to the top ring 

post-23570-0-87820600-1424171629_thumb.j

And .10" across to the edge of the fire ring

post-23570-0-43581500-1424171670_thumb.j

Can I use my pulley with the A/C row removed?

post-23570-0-81926900-1424171694_thumb.j

 

 

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Those look like Hulk hands.  Don't get angry!

 

I had a thought on your copper spray question - better check the head for warpage.  Copper spray = head gasket or head change = potential overheating = potential warpage.  Although, since you're playing with the N47 head on the L24 block, it may not be relevant.  Your title is "Rebuild" but it seems like you might be leaning toward "Performance build".

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 Your title is "Rebuild" but it seems like you might be leaning toward "Performance build".

When I went to work Monday and was telling the guys about how bad I felt they said "you mean that little orange car with the new wheels you's just down here in the other day?  That's the one you've taken apart?" 

 

I sure hope it performs better.  :)

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Might consider doing the notching now while everything is clearly marked. Your piston rings and HG have left you a perfect guide or line to NOT PASS while you are grinding. You can lay the HG on the head and mark a center line for the valve centerline and transfer that to the block. This will show you where the the outer radius or edge of the valve will be. Grinding now before cleaning makes sense too.

As far as grinding tools , I used a 60 grit drum sander on a dremmel. It is very controlable and takes material off slowly and smoothly. If it happens to jump around it won't gouge anything like a carbide bit will.

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I do want to do it before the machine shop get's it.  I'll have those carbon lines and the honing of the bores will make sure everything smoothes together.  I can't believe a dremel will cut that, amazing.  I use the same thing on my dogs toe nails then the next day (after she get's over being pissed at me) I hit them again with 120 grit.  Almost forgot that I've got a spare 2.4 block to practice with, it's never been cleaned either.  Now I've got a plan.  Gotta have a plan! :D   

 

I've decided to take the valves out of my E31 and try and polish it up some, you and Guy made me jealous, it'll help out my machinist too.

The list gets longer... :(

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