'72 240Z Rebuild

[siteunseen]

Thank you guys! Y'all are, as always, exactly right.

I removed the cover to get it right anyway. Glad I did because I had used too much silicone around the water passages and found what a mess that was. Those pieces most likely would have caused some blockage down the road, my luck hasn't been too good lately.

It's still on the motor stand so it was an easy job. Thank you both again.

Cliff

[siteunseen]

Ran the oil pump last night. Great flowing streams from the spray bar.

Have some extra gasket material showing on the cam towers. I should cut off as much as possible? Or leave it? It's stuck down with Permatex aviation gasket sealer.

[DaveR]

On 10/11/2015 at 7:32 AM, siteunseen said:

Had a good day playing with the blast cabinet, no sand in my nose or ears. 

 

The glass beads won't touch the undercoating on the transmission mount so next it'll be coal slag.

 

 

That's on a 9 foot solid oak door that I got from a courthouse renovation we did in years ago. 

Can you quickly confirm the plug sizes and QTY's for your balance tube plugs for the smog delete? I want to pick a few up but i'm not 100% certain which ones I need.  Thx

 

 

[siteunseen]

I've got the invoice at home. I can let you know for sure tomorrow.

I went with what Bruce P from ztherepy said and used NPT plugs from fastenal, my local nuts and bolt store. One eighths inch I believe, 1 on the front side and two or three up top. They'll screw in with a little force, tefon tap helps.

I wished I'd tried those black flush mounting set screws. I used them plugging my a/c compressor holes and they look good against the blue of the block. Who knows against the aluminum?

 

[siteunseen]

Okay I was a little off earlier.  Mine has two 1/8 NPT plugs on the top left and three 1/4 NPT plugs, 1 on the top right, 1 in the front and another on the right side end.

[siteunseen]

It's a boy!  Maybe I'll paint a few more things black? 

[Diseazd]

Very nice Cliff.....looks clean!

[siteunseen]

When my timing chain's shiny link wasn't on #2 where I installed it I went a little nuts and pulled the front cover to re-install the chain.  Acted too fast as I learned from Zed Head.  The links are for initial setup and only line up every so many revolutions, did not know that!  So when I put the cover back on, during "Happy Hour", I tore the head gasket causing a slight leak.  Pulled the head and put a new gasket on, I had my machinist check the flatness first just to be sure as I hadn't done that previously. 

The first lesson of the day was these timing chain tensioner tools aren't worth a crap on a new tight chain, it did the job but just barely.  I'll use it as a guide to make one from oak or some other hardwood.

Then I decided this oil pan gasket doesn't look too good.  Does anybody elses stick out like this?  It's a Nissan gasket, bolts are nice and tight done gradually to allow for the squashing they do.

Then I decided to clean my spray bar a little bit better and remembered how we used to paint staircase spindles by dipping them down into a section of capped PVC pipe.  So I made this contraption and filled it with lacquer thinner, it's soaking still and I will clean it this afternoon when it warms up outside.

Any opinions would be appreciated.

Cliff

[Captain Obvious]

Any opinions?

I think you pulled too hard on the chain tool.
I don't like the looks of the oil pan gasket either.
I think you ought to keep a very close eye on a plastic tube filled with an organic solvent.

[siteunseen]

I've got another oil pan gasket and am just looking for a reason to repaint the pan black, you've tipped the scale for me! They are supposed to be black, right? 

Thanks Captain. 

Oh yeah,  that plastic tool wasn't stout enough to go all the way down. I had to drive it down with 10" socket extension then pull it out with needle nose vise- grips. It's flimsy as hell and the new timing kit is super tight. After running the motor I'm sure it will loosen up somewhat. 

[rossiz]

might want to make your replacement chain tool from something other than wood - delrin would be great (but $$). wood tends to swell and jam, unlike slippery plastics. i found that out the hard way...

 

just read your post above about hammering it in and yanking it out - sounds fishy to me, it doesn't have to be super tight, just enough to hold the tensioner spring inside it's guide. if it's that tight i might be concerned the tensioner isn't set up correctly (this also happened to me and ended badly).

the tool really just slips in and out quite easily.

Edited January 19, 2016 by rossiz

[siteunseen]

Good news!  He's worked on the "slow side" but I had other things to do so it worked out for me.  

I finally got my E31 back and am about to start putting it back together with the Schneider cam kit I bought almost a year ago.  He put new intake valve seats in and a 3-way facing and  said I need to "lap'um in", talking about the valves.  So I assume he means lap the valves until they're smooth sounding?  I lapped the valves on the stock E88 I have on there now for the break in and the sound definitely changes on when they're smooth.  I'm going to take my time assembling this head with a new cam kit, putting some miles on the stock motor while I'm doing the work.  Would that be wise or should I wait and build the head then install the motor.  I'm thinking I could work out any bugs with the carbs and get the rings seated with the E88 I have on it now.  Then in a couple of months pull that one off and put the newer camed E31.  I'm almost ready to put the rebuilt stock motor in now.  I went ahead and notched the block for the bigger valves on the E31 by the way so it should be a simple head swap I hope.  Fun times ahead, finally!

Thank you Guys for any advice, critical or not, I need to know. 

Cliff