siteunseen Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share #301 Posted April 20, 2016 14 hours ago, Patcon said: I bent the handle on my leveler the first time I used it so, I double nutted one end and use an impart with a socket to adjust it with no effort... The only other time I've used it to reinstall an engine was my 280, about 3 years ago. I put the leveler in the middle and had that big front bumper on there. It took me and my Dad, my next door neighbor and his father-in-law to push and pull that thing into place. I see now why I was so anxious about doing this one alone. But I know now to ask the group, everybody's got a trick or two, for the easiest way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff G 78 Posted April 21, 2016 Share #302 Posted April 21, 2016 I gave up on the folding hoists and bought a fixed leg hoist. I never had enough reach even with the bumper removed. Now, I leave the bumper on and have plenty of room to spare. I simply disassemble the hoist for storage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted April 21, 2016 Share #303 Posted April 21, 2016 I used a one ton chain hoist from the rafters, and moved the car. The beauty of the chain hoist is that it doesn't leak down, and it pulls much closer to itself than a come-along,and is very finely adjustable. The rafter was a triple thickness beam at the intersection of two roof surfaces. Very sturdy. Although a 4x4 will spread the load across several rafters also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share #304 Posted April 21, 2016 I need that hoist this morning to get out of bed. I've been crawling all over that car. This part is fun though, I get to dress it up and lubricate all the small stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossiz Posted April 21, 2016 Share #305 Posted April 21, 2016 i hear ya - i need ibuprofin from changing plugs! take care of the back, it sneaks up on you if abused. no fun! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted April 21, 2016 Share #306 Posted April 21, 2016 1 hour ago, siteunseen said: I get to dress it up and lubricate all the small stuff. That's gonna make you go blind, you know. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share #307 Posted April 21, 2016 26 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said: That's gonna make you go blind, you know. Captain, I'm over here! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted April 21, 2016 Share #308 Posted April 21, 2016 Huh? Who said that? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share #309 Posted April 21, 2016 Could I run a temporary hose from the cylinder head to the hose below the spark plugs, bypassing my heater core until I can get the hoses and valve replaced? That way I think it would flow less through the carbs and have some circulation at the back of the head. Anybody have any thoughts on doing it this way? The yellow marking would be one hose. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted April 21, 2016 Share #310 Posted April 21, 2016 You should just block the yellow hose path. The yellow hose would allow the pump to pull too much coolant from the back of the head, and less through the radiator. Causes overheating. Your carb manifold should have a thermostat anyway. There was just whole discussion about it with jxq. They're described in the Fuel Modifications book in Downloads. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted April 21, 2016 Share #311 Posted April 21, 2016 7 hours ago, Captain Obvious said: That's gonna make you go blind, you know. I saw that "softball" coming and resisted hitting it. Very funny was laughing out loud... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted April 22, 2016 Author Share #312 Posted April 22, 2016 Another question. To static time? my dizzy I should put the pointer on the 10 degree BTDC mark on the pulley. Then rotate the cap until the #1 mark on the cap lines up with the center of the rotor button. I can take a Sharpie and transfer the caps #1 line onto the body of the dizzy and turn until the button lines up with the Sharpie mark, no? Thanks for any help, I'm done lubricating the small stuff for today and am having trouble typing this as I've become blinder. "Where's my only cigarette?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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