Hey @Jeff G 78 that's my biggest concern, leaks. Proper torque would be hard for me in the car. Rossiz has a 280 and I have a 240 which appears to have a roomier bay. The more I think about it, if I get a friend to push the motor away from the steering rod it should work. I'll read some more tonight and make a decision. 

Dry fitting is term I'm just getting used to.

And I'll definitely use an old valve cover. Thanks Jeff and Geoff,  both of you guys have solid advice. 8^)

Put several layers of protective tape on the hood latch assembly and wrap it down into the tunnel to protect your paint.  Also remove your hood prop rod and tape a WD40 cap over the prop rod spring clip.  Many clips have snapped off from oil pans catching them.

I've always used movers' blankets draped over all four sides of the bay. I predict you'll have little, if any, trouble doing it yourself. It'll slide in there just fine. Cushion anything of value, take it slow, think ahead and don't tighten any one bolt in an assembly until all the bolts are in. Easy Peasy.

I've dry fit the header and it does not hit the bell house like the 280 did.  Also I noticed how easy the bolts and nuts are accessible so I will be bolting the header on after the motor is down, I can do the job by myself that way and not worry too much.  I've got some real stiff cardboard in between some drop cloth runners I bought for the fenders.  4'x12' folded over the cardboard to 2'x6'. 

Never in my life have I actually tested a thermostat, how can something that simple not work?  Well, well, well they do go bad. 

    

Maybe why my heat didn't work?

 

Questions?

I'm thinking of how to set my car up for motor install, hopefully tomorrow.  Should I put the rear tires on ramps?  And I've got a set of slots without rubber on them.  I was thinking two of those on the front to get it lower?  Advice appreciated. 

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Maybe why my heat didn't work?

Hmmmmmm, could be...

I haven't ever lifted the rear wheels but I suspect it makes it easier to get the tranny into the tunnel and not have to worry about ground clearance

 I usually put the rear up on jack stands. Ramps should work well too. The front I put on a floor jack, no tires, raise it up and put it on jack stands when the engine is in place or when you need to crawl underneath. When the engine was close to the proper position, I jacked up the front of the car instead of lowering the engine all the way down

I think I've seen this described somewhere and I wish I had thought of it when I was installing my engine and transmission combined - you can lift the tail of the assembly up from inside the car by wrapping a rope around it and pulling from the shifter hole.  I would (have) wrap(ped) the inside part of the rope around a 2x4 or 2x2 and twist(ed) it up to hold it in place once lifted.  I didn't though and struggled from underneath instead.  Might be useful if you run out of adjustment on your leveler (I didn't have one) or just get stuck.

THANK YOU! 

Great ideas. I'll do the floor jack under the frontcross memberr and a rope with a wooden handle for the tranny.  And use ramps facing outward on the rears. 

I have a plan!  Happy happy, joy joy.

The higher you can get the rear, the better.  The front just needs to be high enough for the engine hoist legs to fit.  If you are using a load leveler on the hoist, cheat it all the way to the front before you hook it up so you can get maximum angle on the engine.

Good luck Cliff.  Wish I was there to give you a hand.