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Hi. I don't know too much about exhaust systems really, but I would like to make my otherwise stock 71 240z slightly louder or really just better sounding. Ideally this would be something simple like changing out the muffler (which I can easily put back on later). I want to keep it as stock as possible but whatever changes I make I can easily reverse. What is a good way to achieve this?

 

Thanks!

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Hi Chuck. I'm having difficulty figuring out what size I'll need. What specification should I be Googling? Also, do you have any suggestions on a particular muffler or brand? I know Flowmaster is a good one.

I'd get a stainless muffler. I have a local garage that does a lot of exhaust work and they have been able to recommend mufflers to me. See if you have a good exhaust shop in your area and see what they say. I'm not sure what the stock size is. Maybe 1 3/4"?

 

Chuck

"They" say that a good modification for more power is a more free-flowing exhaust system, from the manifold back.  The whole thing will drop down and drag out from under a jacked-up car,  Then you can hang it from the rafters in your garage.  You might consider that option.  Bigger pipes, larger diameter anti-resonator in the middle and a free-flowing muffler.  More power and better sound.  Three nuts and some hanger bolts  (hooks and rubber donuts if you do it right) and you're swapped.

  +1 on the header-back 2.5" system. i did this and am very, very pleased. sound is amazing and will make you feel like speed racer every time you pull past 4K rpm  :P

here's my thread on this - there are many others as well:

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49967-2-12-shop-built-exhaust-sounds-great/?hl=2.5

 

 

bolt-up systems are available, but for the price you can get a custom setup fabbed and have it exactly like you want.

 

find a good mom-&-pop muffler shop and you can do the whole thing for $200-$400 including the resonator in the tunnel, muffler and tip. alumanized steel is fine for the pipes, as they don't hold water much and will last plenty long - mandrel bent is best for free-flow, go with stainless resonator and muffler, as they are the first to rot out, then get a polished stainless tip which will look beautiful forever. much has been written about using a tip that turns down and sticks out a bit farther than the rear bumper to help get exhaust out of the airstream so it doesn't pull back into the cabin.

 

lots of threads on this - of course a simple muffler swap will change the sound, but it's a pretty small step up to do the whole thing and be very, very happy.

  +1 on the header-back 2.5" system. i did this and am very, very pleased. sound is amazing and will make you feel like speed racer every time you pull past 4K rpm  :P

here's my thread on this - there are many others as well:

 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49967-2-12-shop-built-exhaust-sounds-great/?hl=2.5

 

 

bolt-up systems are available, but for the price you can get a custom setup fabbed and have it exactly like you want.

 

find a good mom-&-pop muffler shop and you can do the whole thing for $200-$400 including the resonator in the tunnel, muffler and tip. alumanized steel is fine for the pipes, as they don't hold water much and will last plenty long - mandrel bent is best for free-flow, go with stainless resonator and muffler, as they are the first to rot out, then get a polished stainless tip which will look beautiful forever. much has been written about using a tip that turns down and sticks out a bit farther than the rear bumper to help get exhaust out of the airstream so it doesn't pull back into the cabin.

 

lots of threads on this - of course a simple muffler swap will change the sound, but it's a pretty small step up to do the whole thing and be very, very happy.

 

Wow, I listened to your clips and was very impressed. I am tempted to take your pictures and description to an exhaust shop and tell them I want exactly that and ask for a quote. If they can actually do that for $200-400 then I'm down. Headers are expensive though so I have to consider that.

 

I know better exhaust systems tend to increase performance. Would these changes make any kind of noticeable difference in power?

 

Thanks!

the stock manifolds breath well - lots of folks race with them. save the $$ and do our exhaust from the collectors back.

my system was about $400, i've read of others who spent much less. depends on where you are and what kind of shops are available. the good news is our cars have a really simple system - just a couple of bends and hangers and you're done.

 

a better breathing exhaust can definitely be felt with the "butt dyno" but the sound is really the kicker for me!

Had a local muffler shop install a 2 1/4" pipe and "turbo" muffler, with the stock exhaust manifold and down pipe, on my '73 automatic. I made a bunch of zero to sixty mph runs, timed with a stopwatch, before and after. The new pipe improved it from mid-nines to low eights with no other changes. Definitely noticeable. Cost about $400.

I gave the installers some rattle cans of prep spray and hi-temp exhaust paint; after they welded it up they painted it, before installing it. Might help prevent rust.

You don't need bigger to get a better tone, nor to you gain instant power.  Unless you have upgrated something to increase airflow a larger diameter exsaust is not going to gain a lot.  Infact you gain a droning sound in the cab.  These cars a quite with no mufflers, they just get a bad raspy sound. 

 

If you want a more agressive sound replacing the muflers with resonators or glasspacks would help mild down the raspy sound yet you will gain a more agressive sound when you step on it.  It might gain you some power since the exsaust will have a more unobstructed path.  Supersprint made a nice exhaust sytem back in the day.  I have an original set and if you type supersprint in the search you can read all about it.  The sound is like an early european sports car.   Basicly the system used the same diameter exhaust with:

one resinator at 12" long, with inlet and out let at 1.75"

the two over under resinators in the back at 12" long with inlet and out let at 1.5" 

The pipe follows that same as stock except the Y added to the rear resinators.  Then they welded 2" chome pipe

 

1.75" diameter pipe has a aproximate flow area of 2.41sq"

1.50" diameter pipe has a aproximate flow area of 1.77sq"

1.5" pipe times 2 is 3.53sq"  this falls close to a 2" pipe, but less that a 2.25"

 

Just for kicks I priced the resinators online in stainless steel I found the 1.5" for $11.45 each and the 1.75" for $13.74.  Highend conectors (so you can take it apart) $2.50 each times 2 for $5.  One Y conector $2.50.  With new pipes from the downpipe back with 4 bends, last I checked a shop charges $20 a mandrill bend. About $40-$45 of pipe (stainless of course).  6-8 weld about $10 each.  one can of exahst spray paint $12. and lastly two chrome tips for $25 (got to have the bling).  Plus hanges I forgot to price them.  You can replicate the system.

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