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Removing Mechanical Fuel Pump [1973 240Z]


WolfScythe

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I've recently bought a 1973 240z and have been working on it over time to get it running. A few days ago I finally got it to turn over and I can get it to run by putting fuel into the carburetors, but fuel wasn't pulling through the lines. Fuel strainer is clean. Not sure if fuel lines are, though, however their was no suction on the fuel pump's inlet pipe.

 

I plan on staying with a mechanical fuel pump and if there's a proper replacement or a kit to fix the current one that someone can direct me to it would be much appreciated.

So the question here:

How do I remove the fuel pump?
The compressor is attached to a metal bracket and the fuel pump sits inside the bracket. The bracket is attached to the front of the engine.

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Sorry - on my '72, the compressor's removed from the bracket (hoses still attached) and lowered, then the bracket comes off in order to get the pump off. Some brackets seem wider, though. It's a PITA for sure for what would otherwise be a 20 minute job. Worst part of mine was getting the bracket bolts back in in the proper sequence so all would line up with the holes. Good luck!

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Mine has the same Yorx A/C system.  It's a pain alright.  I just woke up so I'm still a little fuzzy headed but here's what I remember.  There's a bottom bracket going to the motor mount that I took loose so the compressor can fall back and down.  Loosened the alternator too, took the bottom radiator hose off just so I'd have some room.  You'll have to unbolt those 4 bolts holding the bracket to the head and hopefully you can pull it back far enough to get the old one off.  Be careful that you don't break the inspection light's cover.  If you put a socket on the pulley's nut and turn it one way (can't remember which way) it should loosen the A/C belt so you can get it out of the way.  Be careful not to break the insulator in between the pump and the head, you'll need to take it off too, there's gaskets that go in between the insulator and the head then one between the pump and the insulator.  I can't remember the process exactly, just bits and pieces.  It'll take a some time if you're not familiar with it, like I wasn't.  Just start taking stuff loose and you'll figure it out.

 

You might want to take the valve cover off and pull the actuator back and forth by hand to make sure it is bad.  I replaced mine not knowing that my fuel tank was full of crud and was causing the fuel problem.  Get a gas can and put it in front of the radiator, run your supply and return into it and see what happens.  You may have the same problem I had, it runs good with the gas can then I hook everything back up and stall out just a couple of miles from home.  You could also buy/borrow a $20 electric pump and see.  3.5 psi for our carbs.

 

I'm rebuilding my motor right now and all that A/C stuff is in a box where it will stay, it still worked but you can't hardly find R-12 anymore so it's not going back on.  I'll just be hot. 

 

Here's current thread on rebuilding the original pump, I have the cheap stamped one from chain auto parts.

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/30761-rebuild-a-240z-mechanical-fuel-pump/#entry463989

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Hopefully you've read this excellent rebuild thread as well: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/30761-rebuild-a-240z-mechanical-fuel-pump/

You may not need to remove the pump, etc. if you can get the diaphragm rod "unlocked" from the cam follower arm. Some rods have a ball and some a T where they connect to the arm; the right combination of pressing, twisting, tilting, twerking, and luck may save you the trouble of the AC removal.

The position of the arm may make a difference in getting the diaphragm removed, too. Seems like the top of the pump stroke could give you more room to work to free the rod from the arm.

Edited by NVZEE
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