Does anyone have a link for installing a GM HEI module in place of E12-80 on 77 280z?

https://www.google.com/search?q=HEI+280Z&oq=HEI+280Z&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l2.9431j0j8&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=0&ie=UTF-8

Yes.  there are a few discussions about the GM  HEI swap here.

 

I'm still planning on it, but I need to find a kid with long skinny arms to reach the ignition box behind the glovebox.  Or can you just take out the glovebox to unplug it?

Edited March 5, 201510 yr by TomoHawk

Does anyone have a link for installing a GM HEI module in place of E12-80 on 77 280z?

EuroDat supplied one in Post #2 of your other thread.  You would just need to extend and connect the red and green wires from inside your distributor to the red and green wires that run to the old TIU by the fusebox.  The E12-80 is essentially just the big TIU reduced in size and moved to the distributor body.  And even though the inside of the distributors look different the old 77 and the newer ZX type both use the same triggering mechanism.  The red and green wires are the key.

Two days ago I upgraded my ignition on my 77 280Z to a ZX ignition system using E12-80 module,ZX dizzy,ZX coil, and soldered all connections,and protected all with heat shrink tubing. My tach worked fine until this morning. When I started it, tach jumped to 1400 RPM. As car warmed up,tach dropped slowly until tach reached 1000 RPM,and then it dropped to 0. I can give car gas and tach will work as long as RPMs are above 1000. I can also push clutch in,and tach will act like its trying to work,but as soon as I let clutch back out, tach drops to 0. I should have mentioned that this is happening even while in nuetral. Has anybody that has done this upgrade ran into this problem,and maybe might have found a solution?

 I can also push clutch in,and tach will act like its trying to work,but as soon as I let clutch back out, tach drops to 0. I should have mentioned that this is happening even while in nuetral. 

 

Most of what you describe sounds like a bad tach.  But the thing with the clutch pedal sounds like a loose or shorted wire, in the vicinity of the clutch pedal.  I don't think that there are any electrical switches at all on a 77 Z, so mechanical movement of something is the only other option.  The wire to the tach has a high ohm resistor inline so it could probably be dead-shorted with no fuse-blowing or wire-melting.  I'd look around under the dash.  Not really sure how the blue wire could be affected but who knows.

I did think about loose wire in vicinity of clutch pedal but tach didnt even quiver when I pulled,bent,and shook wires under dash.Ime starting to believe that when clutch pedal is pushed in the clutch disengages,and engine is freed up from drag,and then tach begins to want to work again.Bad tach? I dont know but with tach working for half a day,and then acting like this,it could very well be a possibility. Is there a way to test it besides hooking up to different Z car? 

I'll be asking some more questions probably, and watching this thread until spring, because I would like to  install the module over the winter.