yakhopper,

 

from what i can remember from my research, there should be roughy 1-1/2" of travel at the slave.

but the replacement slave cylinders i received only registered around 5/8" after draining, filling, and bleeding the lines.

I was able to attach the clevis pin at the peddle, but it is at the max adj.

 

I still have several inches of free play, and the system wont push enough to free the clutch for a proper shift. I'm getting about 1/2 - 3/4 inch of movement at the slave.

 

I left an assumption in my method, that the master rod was sitting on its piston seat, when the pedal is on its stop.  Which leaves essentially no free play.  The fact that you have all of that free play makes me think that you pulled the rod out of the master cylinder to get it connected.  That won't work.  I would pull the clevis pin and push the rod in to the master cylinder by hand to see how much distance is there.

 

The clutch hydraulic system is essentially self-adjusting.  The only hydraulic play is the distance it takes to cover the hole to the fluid reservoir, which is not very far at all.  The slave cylinder is the same, except that it is filled when you press the pedal, then it only retracts as far as the clutch fork pushes it.  No play at that end at all.

Well, here's an update on the clutch issue.

Nothing made sense with this, so I decided to put the z back up on stands to get a close look. Sure enough, the rod on the slave was at the longest extension and still not tight. Still thinking the fault lied with the master, I noticed something unusual. The bearing fork was also at max travel (no room for it to swing).

It looks like I'm going to have to pull the transmission and see what's going on. At this point I am ruling out hydrolic syster.

Obviously it can only be one of four things. Pressure plate too low, wrong carrier, improperly installed carrier (best bet), or fork is bent.

Getting off work early today, so should have the answer tonight.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and concern.

Eric / Yakhopper

;0)

I don't know if it 's possible but maybe the fork just pulled off of its clips on the throwout bearing.  If so, it would be extended out of the transmission and the slave rod would be at an odd angle.  Might be worth a try to wiggle it around and see if you can push it back on.

I couldn't find my sketch, but here is a photo of my clutch fork. The distance from the bellhousing to the front side of the fork (measured at the outer edge) should be around 110 to 115mm max. If its longer than that, you probably have (and Im now almost certain of it) a throwout bearing collar for the "early" 240Z (pre 07/1971) with the Type FS4W71A 4speed transmission and the new pressure plate for the later version Type FS4W71B transmission. If this is the case you should be measuring around 120mm or maybe a bit more than that.

Note: Those measurements are taken with the clutch at rest, clutch pedal NOT depressed.

 

An easy way to tell the transmissions apart is the Type A has a seperate bellhousing (3-piece transmission housing) and the Type B doesn't. The Type A also has the clutch fork with the return spring and adjustable slave cylinder pushrod.

 

Im afraid your only option will be to remover the transmission and find a new throwout bearing collar for the later pressure plate.

 

Chas

 

I deffinatley have the earlier carrier and transmission, all parts are original from 3-71. 

i will be pulling the trans tonight to verify my suspicions, but am pretty sure the carrier slipped during assembly because there is quite a bit of movement (twist ) in the fork, not feeling connected to the carrier.

either way, we will know this evening.

thanks again for the assistance,

Eric / Yakhopper

;o)  

It will be interesting to see what you find. If you could take meaurements of pressure plate finger height with the prsssure plate still mounted, would be nice for future reference.

Goodluck

Chas

Well I went ahead and droped the trans, and shure as s@#t the pressure plate is indeed the culprit. Original measures 2 1/4" from flywheel to fingers, and the new one measures 1 3/4".

Called O'Reiley's to get another and was told that was the only clutch kit listed for 69 - mid 70s.

Now my girl sits while I try to locate a proper kit :'o(

Anybody know of a good source for the correct kit?

Or

does anyone have a bearing carrier that will work with this kit?

Thanks for all the help,

Eric / Yakhopper

Edited March 20, 20159 yr by yakhopper

That kit shows that it came with the collar/carrier that should have matched the pressure plate.  Did you use an old collar or did the kit only come with a bearing?  The collar that came with the lit should have made everything work fine.  IT's the collar and pressure plate that have to match, nothing else, not year, or transmission.

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTQ5/KF53601/01351.oap?year=1971&make=Nissan&model=240Z&vi=5142639&ck=Search_clutch+set_5142639_-1&keyword=clutch+set

 

Someone else just had this same problem (drawing a blank on the name) and ordered the complete kit with collar from OReilly.

 

Measure from the surface of the flywheel to the surface of the collar that the fork rides on.  It should be ~92mm.

Duralast and Powertorque appear to be the same company or use the same pictures - http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/clutch-set/duralast-clutch-set/42731_121859_4121/

That is the kit, but only comes with bearing, not the cerrier.

Will start looking for another kit or poss a newer carrier.

Anyone have any leads?

The original "size" pressure plates have not been made by aftermarket or nissan for years. They all refer to the later type. Only problem is they forget to mention you also need the bearing collar for the later version.

If you can't find one in a yard, you can get one through MSA.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22b02d/21-2122

Chas