tehmbrick Posted March 27, 2015 Share #1 Posted March 27, 2015 Hi all, Looking for guidance regarding part selection and source for water pump and fan clutch on a '73 S30. Nissan dealer quoting $90 for the water pump and indicates a new pully is recommended (as a result of a slight part design change); $67 for the pully. ($47 for the water pump on Motorsport Auto) Nissan dealer telling me that I can't buy the fan clutch alone, so fan clutch with fan is $271.15 (compared to $80 on Motosport Auto) I suspect this is an OEM vs. aftermarket question. Anyone here experienced with replacing these parts and have advice? Newbie post. Did search the forums, apologies for anything I've missed. Thanks, -TD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 27, 2015 Share #2 Posted March 27, 2015 (edited) Those are $20 parts at any parts store or online at amazon or rockauto. Get the cast impeller water pump, it'll last longer. Edited March 27, 2015 by siteunseen 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 27, 2015 Share #3 Posted March 27, 2015 Are you restoring or just looking for something that works right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tehmbrick Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share #4 Posted March 27, 2015 Are you restoring or just looking for something that works right? Not a restoration. I want a bulletproof (i.e. low maintenance) car that works right and will keep doing so for a long time ... lowest price scares me just as much as highest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 27, 2015 Share #5 Posted March 27, 2015 The pulley charge might be big money for an unnecessary detail. Might be worth asking what the change is. You might find a used pulley or be able to make the old one work. On the fan clutch, are you sure the old one is bad? They don't seem to fail much. You might be more bulletproof and cheaper using inexact parts and adding a fan shroud. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZCurves Posted March 27, 2015 Share #6 Posted March 27, 2015 Go with Siteunseen's advice. As for the Fan Clutch. A bad one will have some of the following characteristics.Total lockup - it should be still not fused.Greasy, oily appearance. This is usually associated with...Too much Axial play - like a whole lot.The fans have always made a lot of racket. You could always install an electric fan too. Finally, since you are replacing the Water Pump, I encourage you to change the Thermostat and check the hoses as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted March 27, 2015 Share #7 Posted March 27, 2015 I had my fan clutch seize long ago. Most of them lose resistance though. I drove the car for a few days, in the summer, with no fan at all(yes it is possible)before I replaced the old one with a flex fan & 3" spacer. After getting rid of the steel fan, I noticed an increase in power with my butt dyno. I didn't have any problems with it at all. The only time a fan is even needed is when the car is not moving or moving very slowly.Mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tehmbrick Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share #8 Posted March 27, 2015 Appreciate all of the responses. As the fan clutch seems to be in good working condition (I was considering as a preventative replacement) - I'm impressed by the Rockyauto selection. For now, going to go with the water pump, gasket and the thermostat (good idea there). Anyone replaced the water pump before - do I need a special puller/tool for removing the pulley, or any other special tools? Again .. thanks everybody. -TD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 27, 2015 Share #9 Posted March 27, 2015 If you can spin the fan more than one or two rotations by hand it's most likely bad. A new fan clutch won't even turn a complete rotation in my experiences.If it's running on the hot side (verified with thermometer in the radiator) more than 200 degrees you should have it boiled out or replaced. A shroud is tremendous help in my opinion. My temp gauge reads hot but they're known to do that. Take the cap off and stick meat thermometer in and let the thermostat open. Mine shows 175 degrees idling in the garage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 27, 2015 Share #10 Posted March 27, 2015 Appreciate all of the responses. As the fan clutch seems to be in good working condition (I was considering as a preventative replacement) - I'm impressed by the Rockyauto selection. For now, going to go with the water pump, gasket and the thermostat (good idea there). Anyone replaced the water pump before - do I need a special puller/tool for removing the pulley, or any other special tools? Again .. thanks everybody. -TDJust make sure and put the bolts back into the same holes. It's an easy job. Take the four nuts off and remove the fan clutch with the fan still attached. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikes Z car Posted April 5, 2015 Share #11 Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) When I replaced my w ater pump on a '70 I wish I had been more gentle in backing the bolts out, might have avoided breaking one off. If there is a next time for my car I will rock the bolts back and forth getting them out though I put the new pump on with new bolts minus one bolt and nary a leak. Edited April 12, 2015 by Mikes Z car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted April 5, 2015 Share #12 Posted April 5, 2015 Yeah they get crusty. Cover the threads with permatex anti seize. I should use that stuff on girls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now