Fuel Injectors

[rcb280z]

I wouldn't pass a "visual" part of the inspection. The tech would say, "that is not stock equipment". The last time I went for emissions testing they huddled around the front looking at my K&N cone air filter. Thought they were going to fail me but didn't.

[rossiz]

I'm not sure if a megasquirt system would be all that noticeable. For a stealth install you could keep all the stock setup, just add the MS ECU in a discreet location. Maybe hide it behind the stock ECU panel? Leave the AFM in place, but disabled and maybe remove the vane to reduce obstruction and use the OEM harness.

Just a thought...

[Zed Head]

I built one of these Bosch adjustable FPR's for my engine.  Mainly because they hold pressure just like the factory FPR's do, unlike the blingy aftermarket units.  And they look stock, not all shiny and multi-colored.  Might be a way to drop your pressure to lean things out and still get past the visual.

 

http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/fuelsystem.htm  Drop down the page to see it.  You don't need to cross-drill, you can just take that point out and drill straight through.  It looks like a needle for a seat but it's not.

 

I got the unmodified FPR on eBay, but it was only $40 then - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-0280160001-New-Pressure-Regulator-/321558063760?hash=item4ade5aaa90

 

There's also Standard's replica - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C81M3E/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=30R38L6H5WA0Q&coliid=I2RUPSHCYBARDH

 

Or you can just buy an already modified unit - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062ZGN8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=30R38L6H5WA0Q&coliid=I15L84TK8NOLHZ

[rcb280z]

How did you modify your fuel rail to accept the regulator with only "one" fuel inlet? The stock one as you know has two inlets. I would think it would be a "noticeable" modification to the techs, no?

Edited April 4, 2015 by rcb280z

[Zed Head]

I had a later model (late 77, maybe 78 and up) fuel rail, with the single inlet FPR.  I did have to make my own bracket for the new FPR and build a short piece of bent tube to make it work.  It sat in the same spot as the factory unit though.  It looked right.

 

Just a thought.  You might also consider what Fast Woman suggested on mjr45's thread about poor gas mileage, if you have the altitude switch ECU (California model).  I've looked at it myself.  Shorting pins 9 and 12, or the switch itself if you have it, should drop fuel usage by ~6%.  You might even be able to just stick a pencil or stick of wood in to the switch and make it activate.  All stock parts!

 

If I was in your shoes, I'd try the altitude switch first.

 

Edit - actually, and I think that Fast Woman suggested this (sorry, I didn't read the details of all of the posts in that thread), you might be able to fake out the ECU by adding a parallel resistance on circuit 9, as show in the diagram.  It would be nice to know where Pin 12 goes, if it's just a low resistance path to ground or if it is actually part of an important circuit.  Anybody got a CA ECU they could check (maybe I do and just didn't know it - anyone know the serial numbers?),

 

Regardless, if you have the CA ECU, you're set.  Easy to try.

Edited April 4, 2015 by Zed Head

[rcb280z]

Definite food for thought. I could possibly source a late 77 / 78 fuel rail and use the adjustable fuel regulator also. I'm sure the late fuel rail will install with no mods. Would be safer and easier than messing with the ECU. I don't feel competent enough around electrical.

I do have the CA ECU and the altitude switch though.

 

rossiz, I had hoped that Super Lenny would have had the Hellfire ready to go by now. But I'm looking for simplicity now. So MS is out for me. Maybe I'm just getting too lazy now?  

[Zed Head]

Actually, the altitude switch should be super-easy.  First, unplug the switch.  Then measure resistance across the switch terminals while sucking on whatever ports/holes are on the switch.  I'll bet you get OL or open circuit normally, and zero or very tiny resistance while sucking on the port.  If the switch is already very low resistance though, there's not much you can do, it's already activated.

 

After confirming very tiny resistance when sucking on the port, just run a jumper, or short circuit across the two pins in the wiring harness.  This will trick the ECU in to thinking it's at high altitude and cut fuel 6%.  Or, figure out how to manually actuate the switch, plug it back in and do that.

 

The key is that the switch be just a switch.  Full open or full closed, open or closed circuit.  If it is, you can't hurt the ECU by shorting the pins in the harness.

 

Either way, it would be good to know if the switch is just a switch or if it has some designed in resistance.  If you could measure that, I'll find a way to short my own ECU's just to see what happens.  I have spares.

 

[rcb280z]

Ok will do. Sometime during this next week. Have to remove my speedo also so while I'm in there.....

[Zed Head]

Yeah, while you're there.

 

If you could measure resistance across the wire harness pins, the connector, that would tell something about the ECU also.  Basically, I could tell if I have an "altitude switch" ECU.  I measured three of mine and got differences based on part number but have no idea what the differences mean.  Also learned that the ground pins in the ECU are not also grounded to the body of the ECU.  They come through different paths.  

 

Good luck.  Don't sweat if you change your mind, I'll figure it out eventually.  My engine is running pretty good right now, but more tricks are always nice.