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It Ain't Running Right!


Reverend

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According to what I have read in the MSD manual, the ballast resistor is only needed if you use breaker points.

 

FYI. I trigger mine with points using this MSD diagram. No ballast. Now that I have the car out of winter storage

I will be changing over to a magnetic trigger and eliminate the points all together.

post-4108-0-65632100-1430519623_thumb.jp

Edited by lumens
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I've set valves last summer, but might as well check them. I swapped those jets (for shitz'n giggles) and no effect.

 

This is the current situation:

 

-Timing @ 13 degree

-Idle mixture screws 1.5 turns open

-Runs super rich and stumbles and sneezes if idle is reduced

-Consumes fuel like crazy

-Idle jets are "50/100", i think thats 50F9

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I made a small tool from transparent pvc pipe, made mark on 29mm and 31mm and measured. First 2 carbs had exactly the same amount of fuel (29mm), rear one had tad over 31mm. I dialed it down but even after full turn, it did not lower the fuel level to 29. Fuel level screw on the last carb is over 2 threads higher than the first 2. Is that normal? Here are couple videos, this first one is taken right after i started it, it raises rpms well but you can hear that the idle is far from nice. It feels like its not running on all cylinders when i took it for a spin, after few mins, it felt better, but not normal.

http://vid578.photobucket.com/albums/ss224/Spacereverend/20150414_194615_zpsgfjnfec5.mp4

 

This is just a test how it sounds inside, too bad on this you cant hear the burbling sound it makes when idling.

http://vid578.photobucket.com/albums/ss224/Spacereverend/20150414_195141_zpssmuhj8ya.mp4

 

On this last one, engine is almost fully warmed and i slowly raise rpms. Im quite sure it spits out from the last carb. Tell me your opinions!

http://vid578.photobucket.com/albums/ss224/Spacereverend/20150414_195719_zpsqvdavzzy.mp4

 

I'm also worried about the engine shaking on idle, it shakes a lot.

 

Just reviewing the thread:

 

I just looked at the vids for the first time.  nice stuff

 

I see throat #3 spit 12 seconds into the first video when the rpms rise. Is this the throat that had the main jet separate (mentioned above)?

 

Also, the return line connected between carbs 2 & 3 could be causing the different fuel levels in carb 3.  Try to get a "T" on carb 3 and pull the return after that one. In the interim, you could try closing the return at the T between 2 and 3 so that there is no return to teh tank.  If your fuel pressure is ~ 3psi you should be fine for testing.

 

You should also spray starter fluid around all of the carb to manifold spacers to make sure no leaks are present.

Edited by Blue
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Maybe check your fuel pressure gauge?

 

Can you block off the return fuel path (dead-head configuration) and set the fuel pressure to 3.5 psi and see what happens?

 

This is the dead head config:

 

TerryBuffum-Jaguar-ParkinsonSpecial-BC.j

Edited by Blue
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I think i know why the fuel pressure gauge showed crazy numbers. I hooked it to the fuel line such way that it was at the "end" of the line, so no fuel would pass it. I need to get T-shape connector so i can allow fuel to travel pass it and measure the pressure then. OR just get a regulator with gauge..

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Hmmm. Another contradiction. It seems that carbs need craploads of fuel to run on idle and cruising speeds, but they starve when revving over 4500 rpms. Carbs sound like machinegun (popopopopopopopop) if i go over that...???

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