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So, first of all, i've been gone from the car circles for a long time for certain reasons. Have forgot most what i learned about carbs and timing.

 

Problem: last summer, i broke my distributor. Yes, it went broken. The collar that holds dizzy on place (with 2 10mm screws) was bent and eventually dizzy started to wiggle, so forth destroying all screw threads that were holding it to place. SO. I replaced it with similar kind of oem 240z distributor (no-points, custom made) and i just CANT make it run nicely.

 

I have 3 SK/OER dual sidedrafts that were tuned last summer. Havent touched them since. I dont remember the basics of timing, but i have timing gun with igniton advance setting.

 

Tell me what are the correct numbers for proper timing on 3 carbs. We tried every combo. It sometimes idled super smooth, then when rpms raised, ran like $^!#.

 

In two weeks we have major car event here, i just need it to be done with before the show.

 

Thanks in advance

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Did compression test. All cylinders were ~150psi.. i cleaned those small filters that are in each carb banjo fitting, there was some crap there but it did not affect. Here is couple videos of testing spark, is it strong enough? It only "activates" when its not touching the car, only from short distance, is that normal? Check out the second video for that

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vehu2cfjt228q3q/20150510_122131.mp4?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/f5fcxdzafaa57cj/20150510_121426.mp4?dl=0

 

So its getting fuel (put my hand over the rampipe and fuel cam pouring out), it seems to have spark and its getting air. Pressure is good and valve clearances are set. What in the name of lawd almighty is wrong with nr6?


The spark in the first video looks a lot healthier than the spark in the second video. The one in the second video looks intermittent like it isn't firing rhythmically.

 

What was different between those two videos? Did you change something on the engine between the two?

Well the spark is healthier because it does not touch the fuselage, thats the only difference. I bypassed the ballast resistor i had on place and now it gives spark normally, when the plug touches anywhere in the fuselage/engine. BUT it did not solve the problem!! :(

 

I measured that the new coil i have, has 3 ohm resistance and old one had 1.8 when it worked, maybe i need to get more powerful coil as well even it is not the problem anymore (i think..?)

 

I disassembled the rearmost carburator, everything looked okay, sprayed craploads of carb cleaner to every possible place imaginable. I wonder could the brake booster somehow affect cyl nr6??

Dead head and set fuel pressure to 3.5psi. You can then focus on the carbs and not worry about fuel.

 

Correct.

Set at 3.5 max. You are flooding at anything more.

THEN start working on setting up the carbs correctly.

Did I miss the part where you gave the venturi size and jet sizes?

32mm choke, 50/100 idle jets (50F9), 115 main jets (too small), F11 emuslion tube and 170 air corrector. My fuel pump should max out at 4 psi, so its not flooding at all, i get only ~2 psi to the fuel regulator. But cylinder nr 6 aint starving either as far as i know, if i put my hand over the throat, it blurbs fuel out.

 

Here is picture of the whole engine bay if that helps figuring out.

 

post-19126-0-14933300-1431319505_thumb.j

If I am looking at this right your manifold does not have the balance tube connecting all the throats. Correct? If that is the case disconnect the booster off of the #6 intake and plug the port. See if that helps. If the booster is badly blown it may be causing the lack of draw on #6

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