ZCarSource has them for $315 plus core (old tank)  Jeez, my tank looks good inside……...

http://www.zcarsource.com/gas-tank-240z-70-73-reconditioned-de_8_55265_52737.html

Edited May 18, 20159 yr by AWAUDIO

You could probably "fully line" yours and solve your problem.  Coat the hole closed.

 

And, thinking, on a 240Z, which may not have intricate baffles inside, maybe you could just punch a hole in the tank and run a new tube.  I've seen people put supply lines through the drain plug also.  Just saying, a decent speed shop might fix your problem and give you a better tank for less money.

 

First - confirm problem.  If you can get the scope close maybe you could blow air through the fuel hose and look for bubbles.

My next step is doing the jackstands ( I hate doing that) (it's a PIA and I'm getting too old to crawl under a chassis) be that as it may, after it's floating I'm gonna run it off external fuel and watch for bubbles in fuel filter.  I'm sure it's gonna be good.  Then I'm going to run it off the feed line from the tank (in case I have a solid fuel line failure somewhere).  Then it's drop the tank. To those of you out there who fight these problems like I have,  hang in there, this would have been  a financial nightmare in a shop….nothing against shop guys, it's just that it's taken 2 months (part time) for me to get it down to a probable problem INSIDE the tank.  If there are any  gurus out there who could have sent me straight sooner…….I'd have paid for it. To date It's been 2 months of: new plugs. points (twice), condenser, dizzy cap, interior dizzy wires (long and short),  insulator, rotor (x2), dizzy wiring external (all new crimps) , dizzy connections to coil, new coil, coil wires, carb filters (internal-small ones), carb float to bowl hoses (Z Therapy), Carb float gaskets, fuel filter x 2, fuel pressure gauge on manifold, fuel pump (mine is perfect at 3.5 lbs) replacement at 5 lbs. (and I have full OEM rebuild kit from Canada),  So this has become a career.  If I didn't have to work for a living I coulda maybe nailed this sooner….NOT.  I still don't have this resolved.  But I'm getting closer.  If I didn't have work to distract me………..

Once the tank is out, you will have two larger holes to look and work through, sender unit hole and a short filler neck.  It seems is possible (IIRC, when my tank was out) to fill the hole with a fuel grade type filler with use of 'tools on sticks' type approach.  Small light can be in the tank, camera focused on the hole through the drain hole, mirror on a stick and a tool to place product on the hole.  Based on if the hole is visible and able to get to, dexterous.  Just a thought.  If the tank is relined, make sure all vent holes don't get plugged with liner, it has happened.  HTH

 

Bonzi Lon

nice work sherlock - who knew??

the hole in the top from the sender cover is pretty big, if you can see the problem from there, you might be in business to repair it. and you can do that with the tank still in the car, as there is a gasketed lid in the hatch area that you can remove to take out the sender unit (at least there is on my '78) so try looking in from the top before you go through the trouble of dropping the tank. 

240s are different. Sending unit is right above half tank weld, facing the front of the car on the passengers side. It's a bee itch compared to the 280s drop in unit.

bummer... i was hoping i could actually give some helpful advice. 

makes sense why they changed it though!

bummer... i was hoping i could actually give some helpful advice. 

makes sense why they changed it though!

HaHa!

I'm interested in your new coil set up, so if it works out good you'll be pestered to death by me.

The pick up tubes are soldered into the tank. If it was mine I would take it to a radiator repair shop and see if they would clean it and solder in a new pickup tube. You may have to source the tube for them. I would be afraid to try and patch the tube for fear of restricting it.

It was a suggestion that did not include wallet drain, high heat, sparks or flames. 

 

Bonzi Lon

The suggestion was good. I wasn't picking on it just had concerns about how it would hold up or unforeseen consequences.

Ok folks, latest update.  Car on jackstands.  Removed fuel sender unit (those electrical connections are from hell).  Using inspection scope from top, the bottom of my tank and inlet tube is clean, clear, nada.  At the elbow, with scope from top, I still think I see corrosion and a hole in the bend, as the pick up tube heads downward.  Let me state at this point that those scopes are great if you're not lying on your back trying to manipulate a flex camera into odd places at odd angles while looking at a 3" screen with high contrast.  Now you know why proctologists get the big bucks.  I am trying to find a fiber light optic source to feed into the tube so that I can see if I see light in the tube while looking at it from inside with the scope.  I really want to verify I have a hole before dropping tank.  I'm 90% sure the corrosion I see is enuf, but my time is free, a new tank is not.  I'd love to post pics, but there is no way I can manipulate scope and take a screen shot.  I could video it, but that means a feed to the studio……..ugh.  So, it's Edmund  Scientific for a fiber optic source (which won't spark) but is bright enuf to see thru a hole in the tube.  Any other thoughts?  I'm at the end of the line…literally.

 

Aw