My New Z

[CanTechZ]

When I was cleaning out the car, I found the 1976 FSM in the tool compartment. It's missing the cover but otherwise looks complete...

Good score.

[bratliff]

Mid-weekend update. 

 

I installed the new alternator and replaced one of the ground wires and got the Z running. Tested at the battery and everything is drawing per specs and the system is charging now. The car idles a little rough, but i'm guessing I have a vacuum leak somewhere that I will track down. Currently, I have the rear end jacked up so I can drop the gas tank and check for rust. I'll also be removing the rear bumper shocks while I'm up there and installing a PrimaFlow exhaust I got on Ebay. It's NOS and I mainly got it cuz with the rear bumper removed, the old exhaust pipe is fairly prominent and it is in a sad state.

 

Here are some pics taken yesterday.

 

 

I'm thinking I may put a 240z bumper on. The front end looks like it's missing something.

 

 

I'll also paint the lower air dam to match the car.

 

 

 

The only real bodywork that needs to be done is clearly visible in these last two pics. The driver's front fender looks like it was hit at some point. I'll get to that when I get to the paint, ie last.

 

[SteveJ]

You'll need to buy or fabricate brackets to mount the 240Z bumper. I fabricated them for my 260Z. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2014/09/06/260z-air-dam-and-front-bumper/

[bratliff]

You'll need to buy or fabricate brackets to mount the 240Z bumper. I fabricated them for my 260Z. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2014/09/06/260z-air-dam-and-front-bumper/

Yea, not sure my fab skills are up to that... I'll pro'ly have buy some or bribe someone to make them for me.

[SteveJ]

Diet Dew & BBQ.

[bratliff]

I haven't posted in a while but I've got some work done. Got the rear bimper shocks removed, removed and cleaned the rust out of the gas tank, reinstalled it and put in new fuel lines, and installed the new exhaust. Tomorrow, I want to replace the belts. I've searched for a "how to" but no luck. Can anyone tell me the process to swap out the two engine belts? I can probably figure it out but I prefer to know the "proper" way before I start.

Also, I need a new steering wheel. Does the 240z wheel bolt right up? I like the look of the wooden wheels.

[wheee!]

I wish my car looked as good as this in the first post!

[Chickenman]

Yes, the 240Z wheel will bolt right up.

 

Belts are about as easy as it can get.

 

1: Alternator/Fan  belt. Loosen adjusting bolt on top and two pivot bolts on bottom. Rotate alternator and slip belt off. Belt can be maneuvered around fan blades to remove. Some people like to remove the Fan blade and thermo-coupling to make things easier.  Four 6mm ( 10mm wrench size ) nuts hold fan assembly onto W/Pump.

 

2: AC belt. Remove Fan belt.  Loosen center nuts on AC Belt idler pulley. Wind down long threaded adjustment bolt to release tension on AC belt. Remove belt.

 

Assembly is in reverse order.

 

Check the AC idler pulley bearing for wear or noise. The bearing is replaceable and is a standard sealed Ball  bearing  available at any bearing supply shop. Bearing number is stamped on outer case.

 

Note: It is advisable to pop off one of the rubber seals with a small screwdriver and re-pack the bearing with a good bearing grease. Bearings these days are scrimping on the grease and often don't come packed with enough in them. Makes for a short life but lots of extra bearing sales....

[bratliff]

I wish my car looked as good as this in the first post!

Thanks! I'm hoping it'll look and run a little better when I'm done. I'm following your thread for ideas too!

Yes, the 240Z wheel will bolt right up.

 

Belts are about as easy as it can get.

 

1: Alternator/Fan  belt. Loosen adjusting bolt on top and two pivot bolts on bottom. Rotate alternator and slip belt off. Belt can be maneuvered around fan blades to remove. Some people like to remove the Fan blade and thermo-coupling to make things easier.  Four 6mm ( 10mm wrench size ) nuts hold fan assembly onto W/Pump.

 

2: AC belt. Remove Fan belt.  Loosen center nuts on AC Belt idler pulley. Wind down long threaded adjustment bolt to release tension on AC belt. Remove belt.

 

Assembly is in reverse order.

 

Check the AC idler pulley bearing for wear or noise. The bearing is replaceable and is a standard sealed Ball  bearing  available at any bearing supply shop. Bearing number is stamped on outer case.

 

Note: It is advisable to pop off one of the rubber seals with a small screwdriver and re-pack the bearing with a good bearing grease. Bearings these days are scrimping on the grease and often don't come packed with enough in them. Makes for a short life but lots of extra bearing sales....

Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for.

[bratliff]

Well, I couldn't get her started. I decided to remove the fuel pump and replace all of those fuel lines. The one from the tank to the pump was kinda kinked, so, I installed a longer line with a loop in it and also put in a clear fuel filter as I've seen advised here. I also took the time to actually mount to pump to the car. Te previous mechanic had used zip ties to attach the pump to the bracket. 

 

Still no luck.

 

So, replaced the fuel filter. I also replaced the belts. Thanks Chickenman. I wouldn't say it was easy. The tensioner to the AC belt would not go down. I need to use a persuader. But, I did get them on and it would have been much worse if I'd done it my way.

 

NOW, she runs. Took a bit of cranking to get her started but once she fired up, she ran fan. Idle was a bit rough until she warmed up but then she idled fine. The temp gauge in the dash pod even works! I think she's running a bit rich and the idle is a bit rough (drivable though). Is there an easy way to adjust this, or should I just leave it as is (it is drivable) while I go through the vacuum lines and wiring harness and correct any issues I find?

 

When's the next GA meet up?!

[SteveJ]

We're meeting up on the 19th up in Canton for the Po Boys car show. That's a week from Saturday.

 

I sent you a PM.

 

By the way, you can find all of the planned club events here: https://www.facebook.com/georgiazclub/events?key=events.

Edited September 11, 2015 by SteveJ

[bratliff]

Ok. So I RTFM'd and read how to adjust the timing. My thought is to leave it be at this point until I verify I've taken care of any vacuum leaks, etc. that could be throwing it off. I don't want to chase the proper timing around and, according to my Dad at least, it was running fine when he parked it. Does this make sense or should I go ahead and adjust the timing now?

 

We're meeting up on the 19th up in Canton for the Po Boys car show. That's a week from Saturday.

 

I sent you a PM.

 

By the way, you can find all of the planned club events here: https://www.facebook.com/georgiazclub/events?key=events.

 

Yep. I checked the FB page after I posted this. Not sure I wanna make my first road test all the way to Canton though... I was hoping for something a little closer in. Looks like I just missed one though.