Rusted fuel lines under battery tray

[siteunseen]

While my engine is out I'm cleaning up the bay.  I'm worried about the rusty hardlines directly under the battery, the only section.  Has anyone dealt with this before?  I've found a pre-bent line from classictube.com for $255 but would be happy with more options.

 

Thanks in advance for any replies of similar experiences.

Cliff 

[Zup]

Had this same problem---

Years of battery acid laden moisture discolors and corrodes the tubing in this spot.

While not "proper", I sanded mine with 220 grit carborundum paper and applied clear over it.

No one around me has a plating tank large enough to begin to fit for re-plating.

Unless they are very severely corroded they will brighten up nice and shiny. You will see that the tubing itself has a colored hue maybe from copper (?) used in the alloy.

Looks worlds better and I'm happy!

2c

Jim D.

"Zup"

[SurferD]

I just did this job Wed 4/15

I replaced both lines to the fuel rail and filter from front to back.

I happened to be working on the rear suspension and decided to clean up the lines a bit.

When I touched them they both started leaking because the corossion was so bad and the wall thickness was less than paper thin.

I'm surprised I didn't have a leak sooner.

The tubing holders were also rusty and most of the heads broke off the screws. (Thanks Nissan for using 4mm fine thread hardware)

I used 3 pieces of each size 3/16 and 5/16 tubing with flare fittings.

You don't have to do the whole length if it's still good.

Just cut the bad part out and use a new piece where needed then flare the old line.

A regular flaring tool sucks to get into small places but Cal-Van maks a cool inline flare tool.

I saw theclassictube site and it looks promising but good luck getting the line in around the sharp bend near the firewall. 

I had to make a much larger radius turn because my bending tool was too big and the 5/16 started flattening.

I assume since your engine is out your tranny is too so you have plenty of room to work.

My cost other than time was about $50.

If you have any doubt about the integrity of the lines replace them.

If it's light rust then you can sand it.

It's a crappy job but it's better than a leak or fire.

So get under there and inspect the lines.

Edited April 17, 2015 by SurferD

[Patcon]

If I replace my lines, I will probably see if Fedhill has the appropriate sizes. I have used them for brake lines.

C

[siteunseen]

Well I'm thinking of a POR-15 product to seal this section, any other ideas besides new a line?

 

[SurferD]

Well I'm thinking of a POR-15 product to seal this section, any other ideas besides new a line?

 

DSC01032.JPG

I'd just use a new one. That's pretty bad.

[Patcon]

The lines aren't that thick and that has some pretty heavy pitting. I would replace.

C

[siteunseen]

Can I splice that section in or do I have to do the whole thing?  It's a nice shade of green/grey everywhere else.

 

Thanks,

Cliff

[Patcon]

I don't know. Can you find flair nut connections that fit the lines good, since I assume they are really metric? Do you have room to put the connections in and still clear the body of the car when the line is in the insulators? Do you trust the splice?

C

[siteunseen]

I'd trust a foot of 5/16" hose and some solid fuel injection clamps until I restore the car.

[Patcon]

That would work since the pressures are pretty low...

C

[SurferD]

I'd trust a foot of 5/16" hose and some solid fuel injection clamps until I restore the car.

That's the way they're attached to the tank in the back anyway.