Careless Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share #13 Posted April 22, 2015 (edited) What makes you think the vapor tank you took out was not original? C It is indeed not original because it is a custom fabricated aluminum doohicky. It is not at all an original unit for any vehicle, ever. . what IS original is what I'm trying to determine. it could have been converted at some time? I'm unsure right now. Yes there should be a few things. If there is no evap tank there will only be a fuel and return gas line, if there is a tank there is a third line the same size as the return line. There would be a flow valve which the line attaches to mounted on the drivers side fender wall. As well the large vent pipe that comes out of the side of the block will have a small tube that connects to the flow valve and if it does not have the vapor recovery system there is no small pipe. The large tube on the driver side of the motor is closer to the front, yes? It's about 3/4 to 1" diam hose connection, and it has a smaller tube coming off of it that has a small 90* bend? The later L28's had a crank case box casted into the block in the same region and had a threaded vent hole in the same spot as the pipe you speak of, right? Is this the valve you speak of? I just checked the "Fuel Piping" section of E-Fast, and it shows "TO FLOW GUIDE VALVE", so I looked it up and this is all I could find. I do indeed have one of these on the table at the shop next to the carbs. And I do indeed have 3 non-fitting style pipes that I sent to the plating facility (i.e.- bead rolled, but no fittings for brakes or couplers on the end). This would indicate that I need to locate a plastic evap tank then, from the looks of it. or am I mistaken? E-Fast shows 4 part numbers, haha. oh mannnnnn. Edited April 22, 2015 by Careless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240dkw Posted April 22, 2015 Share #14 Posted April 22, 2015 No I think you are correct in saying you need a tank, it is surprising as the build date is so early. It will be hard to find a plastic one. Yes that is the flow valve I mentioned. As well that is right the 90 degree bend tube would not be there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share #15 Posted April 22, 2015 welp... off to the classifieds I will go! thanks everyone; great help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbuczesk Posted April 22, 2015 Share #16 Posted April 22, 2015 I might have a plastic tank in good condition. Anybody know what it's worth? Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share #17 Posted April 28, 2015 jack-pot, the 71 parts car has the plastic tank, all fasteners look to be in excellent condition, as well as the vapor hoses and twin-ring hose clamps. but the thing is browwwwwn. I was thinking of giving it the 'ol hydrogen peroxide and wild rice rinse-a-roo. Has worked for me in the past. Any thoughts? Should I be aware of anything before removing this unicorn part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfa.series1 Posted April 28, 2015 Share #18 Posted April 28, 2015 Since the tank will be hidden behind the interior panels, cleaning it will only be for your personal satisfaction. As with any 40+ year-old plastic tank, it will be fragile - especially at all the hose connections and the mounting tabs. Be gentle! Inspect the hose connect points very carefully for cracks before you put it back in. Lube the inside of the new hoses just a bit before pushing them onto the tank - less stress on the tank fittings. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share #19 Posted April 30, 2015 (edited) will do. I'm going to have to pull the differential and the tank to get this thing out safely with all the lines, aren't I? ... damnnnnnnit. Edited April 30, 2015 by Careless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfa.series1 Posted April 30, 2015 Share #20 Posted April 30, 2015 No need to pull the diffy but your should expect to drop the tank to get to the lines. The tank should only be partially dropped to reach and disconnect the lines if you intend to reuse them. A full drop will probably stress and break the lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share #21 Posted April 30, 2015 that's all I will be doing, is disconnecting them up top and at the bottom, so I can fish them through one by one. guess I'll have to shampoo them gently after to get them looking clean again. or RIT dye them, but I'm not sure unseen lines need that much attention. maybe just some conditioner :-P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdyck Posted May 1, 2015 Share #22 Posted May 1, 2015 I dropped my tank (and cleaned it to do mine), wanted to clean out and paint the tank, but you could use a floor jack and drop it down 6" or so. I'd still drain the fuel as it can be a bit of a fight to get the new lines on. By the way here's the picture of my solution for the 180 degree hook on the top right vent on the gas tank. And the vent with all new lines in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share #23 Posted May 8, 2015 Thanks sdyck! I managed to remove the vapor canister, but the lines are still there. The only one that came out with the unit was the one you replaced there. They all look like they are in good condition, so I will use them from the car. Just gotta see about cleaning the fabric weave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilbur
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