Coolant Hoses & Lines

[KenFirch]

My 73 240Z has a funky looking water line from the rear intake to the right side of the block.   I figured the short hose would eventually blow, and it did tonight.  And I'm sure the metal tube that wraps around the back of the motor isn't the original style.  I think mine is copper, and that can't be right.   I'd like to replace all hoses and tubing with the correct 73 pieces.  It looks like thezstore's part# 16-8026 (Manifold Heater Hose, Rear Intake Manifold to Rear Tube, 73 240Z) is not available.  Does anyone else sell this tube?  Or a complete kit to replace everything?

 

Edit:  Or remove the intake cooling altogether since it's probably useless in my area.

 

Thanks,

 

Edited April 23, 2015 by sfm6s524

[siteunseen]

I cut the old one off with a razor knife then wrestled a short piece of 1/2" heater hose on mine.  After all I read, I decided to keep the flow through the intake.  I think it was the word "stagnant" that made up my mind.

 

How's the one under the thermostat housing looking?  May as well change it too. 

Edited April 23, 2015 by siteunseen

[sdyck]

For the hard line I think you need to find a good used part. Ebay or someone here with a parts car might be able to help.

[KenFirch]

Yeah, I just replaced the small 1/2" rubber hose piece and kept the copper hard line for now.   Works, but it does look like crap.

[Zed Head]

The auto stores sell lengths of coated steel fuel line that might work.  Not that expensive and they come in various lengths and diameters.  Probably bendable if careful and they're stainless so should hold up.  Copied an example, most stores have a variety hanging in the back.  They even have the beaded ends, if you can find the right length, although you'd have to cut the fitting off.  Or use it with a nipple fitting added.

 

I used a 2 foot length as the return line for my fuel rail modification.  Good stuff.

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/800156/N1650.oap?ck=Search_N1650_-1_-1&pt=N1650&ppt=C0290

 

 

Here's a better list.  Up to 3/8" diameter.  I think that Autozone's stuff might have a better finish.  Mine is a matte olive green color.

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Steel+Fuel+Line+Repair+Kits/N1650/C0290.oap

Edited May 1, 2015 by Zed Head

[jfa.series1]

According to the on-line catalog, your P/N is 14053-E8800, NLA from Nissan.  You might do some searches to see if one might be available elsewhere.  This is mine, just back from plating this week - and NO, it is not for sale.  These steel tubes corrode like crazy, mine has damage at one end but not bad enough to total it.  Some JB Weld filled in the pitting.

 

PS - congrats on hanging on to your rear engine lift bracket, most are missing by now!

[Zup]

The coolant hard line is still available from MSA. Not cheap---about $90

Or you can get it from www.jdm-car-parts.com for about the same price as they both come from the same place.

I have a used re-plated one in about the same condition as Jim Arnett's. If you are interested in it give me a P.M.

Jim D.

"Zup"

[Stanley]

Supposed to be a hot = closed thermostat between the back of the intake manifold and the hard line, per FSM. MSA used to have them, not anymore. I've seen a car with a non-stock one. Mine just had a hose barb, no thermostat. It circulates hot water to warm the carbs and provide circulation. When the engine warms up it shuts off. 

 

On mine the hose barbs were shot and the water line through the manifold was also rusted out and leaking, so I got a 1/4" BSPT plug for the thermostat, and used a tapered rubber plug with a silicon cap clamped over it to plug the Y water fitting, on the other side of the engine. Couldn't get the rear hose barb out, so I put a rubber cap over it to cover the rusty jagged edge.

 

You can make or buy a hard line or run a heater hose around the back to the Y-fitting. The hose barbs are different size (stock has a reducer hose), so you'd need to put a reducer/hose splicer in the line, or replace the hose barb at the manifold with BSPT adapter and hose barb that matches the Y-fitting.

 

Copper might not play well with aluminum, IIRC.