Project Boondoggle (or, so I went and bought a Z!)

[charliekwin]

Haha! And if you're going to paint a gas tank, I would try to find a paint that is fuel proof....

Signed, Captain Obvious.

PS - Maybe some of Eastwoods "catalyzed in a can" spray paint? I haven't tried it, but I suspect it's fuel proof or at least fuel resistant. Wear a good respirator...

http://www.eastwood.com/paints/2k-aero-spray-paints.html

That's the worst part of it, the Eastwood paint I used (Extreme Chassis Black) is *supposed* to be fuel, solvent and brake fluid resistant. In my case, it hasn't resisted any of them. I'll be looking at other options!

[Captain Obvious]

Yeah, now that you mention it, I remember you had issues with the paint. I've read reviews of Eastwood's stuff and it seems their stuff can be very sensitive to the application process. With that in mind, I took a quick look at the instructions for the chassis black stuff and I'm confused about what is the correct application procedure...

 

The chassis black primer  instructions say you can recoat or topcoat after 24 hours. However, the chassis black top coat  instructions say wait 4 hours and then spray the top coat. Doesn't make sense to me.

 

In any event, I'm not a paint guy, but I've never had good solvent resistance from any paint that wasn't catalyzed or at least CA based (like POR15). The 2K aerosol stuff (I linked to above) is catalyzed and I would expect it to be much more solvent resistant.
 

[charliekwin]

Agreed, the top coat instructions aren't especially clear, and I swear Eastwood has a few different instruction sheets with contradictory information about application timing.  I was confused and emailed them a while back for clarification, and did what the guy said, but I just can't seem to make the stuff work for me.  I've been looking at other paints and came to a similar conclusion about using a POR15-type product or a 2k automotive paint, but still trying to get a bettergrasp on it.  All I know for sure is that I don't know much!

[rossiz]

sorry to hear that - but at least you know how to do the r/r on the tank and won't have any frozen fasteners. the job's always quicker/easier the second time eh?

[Captain Obvious]

Well I don't know what it was that went wrong with your paint application, but something certainly affected the adherence between the primer and the top coat. But regardless of how well the top coat gripped the primer, it all (top coat and  primer) came off with the gasoline, right?

 

I know very little about paint. All I know for sure is that I probably know less than you do! 

 

 

[charliekwin]

Not much of an update, but finally can get back on track after over a month.  Moved back in August and have finally settled in and cleaned out the garage of all the boxes of stuff we shouldn't have brought with us but did.  I'm pretty excited about the garage situation, because this is way more space to work in than I've had before.

 

 

Still have about a half tank of gas to burn, then I can get to work on that fuel tank again.

 

Story time: I got an unsolicited offer on the money pit yesterday. I was at the gym, but my wife told me that a guy knocked on the door and asked if the car was for sale.  She told him no, but she could've at least asked how much he wanted to pay!  Hopefully I won't have to get the "if you say so..." look anymore when I tell her it's a cool car and they're in demand

[hr369]

Still have about a half tank of gas to burn, then I can get to work on that fuel tank again.

How about using the eastwood paint or coating they use on the inside of the tank for the outside?

I've never used the stuff but it sounds liike a true catalyzed epoxy. Its a 2 part system right?

Rattle can epoxy is weak.

 

Catalyzed epoxy is what i used to spray motorcycle gas tanks with.  You need a compressor

and spray gun for that. cheaper to just farm that out if you don't have the equip.

[charliekwin]

How about using the eastwood paint or coating they use on the inside of the tank for the outside?

I've never used the stuff but it sounds liike a true catalyzed epoxy. Its a 2 part system right?

Rattle can epoxy is weak.

 

Catalyzed epoxy is what i used to spray motorcycle gas tanks with.  You need a compressor

and spray gun for that. cheaper to just farm that out if you don't have the equip.

 

I've been doing some reading (paint is something I know very little about) and I'm definitely looking at using some kind of catalyzed paint this next time.  I liked the satin black look, but have also considered shooting clear over bare metal as well.  I have a compressor, gun, and some minimal skill...none of which are good enough to take on a whole car, but will do fine for the fuel tank.

 

I plan on emailing Eastwood to see if they have any suggestions.  I'm half-hoping they might throw a discount my way for the experience I had with the other paint.

[jonathanrussell]

When you do your reading about paint, you might want to read up on isocyanates. Eastwood's 2k spray paints contain isocyanates. I purchased a few cans but decided to not use after reading. I know very little about 2 part paint and just couldn't get comfortable that even the best cartridge mask system would be enough, not to mention skin exposure risks. Just something to consider....

[Patcon]

Did you ever try the Eastwood forum or Kevin Tetz "Paintucation" forum. Either one can probably get you pointed in the right direction. Also Isocyanates can be dangerous. Good respirator and ventilation are important!

[charliekwin]

It's been hard to find time lately, but I have squeezed in some time to work on the Z here and there.  I dropped the tank a couple weeks ago to deal with that leak and ruined paint.  The bright spot, I suppose, is that it'll be easy enough to strip, since the paint comes off in sheets!    I emailed Eastwood looking for their suggestions and have yet to receive a response, so that's another strike.

 

 

I've been doing a bunch of reading on paint options, and am leaning towards SEM's Rust Shield for the tank and interior, so long as SEM's people say it'll work.

 

Speaking of the interior, I finally bit the bullet and started on that project.  There was about 6 different carpet types in there and a whole bunch of nastiness under it, along with the requisite DPO work we all expect.  Highlights include loose SAE bolts for 6 of the 8 seat mount points, 1 properly-tightened metric bolt, and 1 snapped off in the body.  Good thing I didn't get in an accident!

 

I hit one of the worst-looking parts of the floor pan with a wire brush, and it looks like I'm just dealing with some surface rust, so that's great news.  I wasn't originally planning on removing the old sound deadener, but after watching some videos that show removal via dry ice, I've changed my mind -- it looks so easy!  After that: clean, paint with Rust Shield, put down Raammat, MLV and closed-cell foam and a new carpet kit.  Piece of cake.

 

[rossiz]

you will be happy knowing the floor pans are sealed up well when you're done.

sound mat makes a huge difference in ride noise. i did the entire passenger compartment and was quite happy - then 6 months later i did the back hatch area and was really surprised how much quieter it was after i did the area in the spare tire well  - that panel seemed to ring from reflected noise off the rear tires before. the sound mat was like turning off the treble on an am radio - not silent, but the harsh road noise is gone and it's much more pleasant to drive, especially on the highway (i commute daily in mine).