Just realized that old fuel filters have some pretty nice hose fittings of the proper size.  Hard to find in the hardware stores.

thanks zed, i will add these connectors to my list as well as the linkage

The Fuel Injection Guidebook makes it easy to check much of the EFI system right from the ECU connector, where it matters.  A meter, the guidebook, pen and paper, and you can confirm that most of the system is either right or wrong.  Worth doing at least once just so you know.

 

The 1975 book will have almost everything you need, but the 1980 book covers all years and will be exact.

 

http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

 

Stuff like this.  So comforting...

 

 

That's about as comforting as diarrhea. Butt thanks.

So as I'm checking the various connections I noticed the hose from the fpr to the manifold wasnt connected, so reconnected it but it still wont start. The car turns over and a series of pops come from the exhaust but the car still wont idle long, maybe 3 seconds before it stalls. the idle is very low as well, 500rpm or so. Checked the coolant temp sensor and see that one of the connectors is sheared off. The blue/green on is still connected though. Where is the sheared off connector supposed to go to? I couldn't find a loose connector.

Edited April 28, 20159 yr by Blinkerfluid22

That's about as comforting as diarrhea. Butt thanks.

 

Haha!!! I literally laughed out loud at that. Wife wants to know what's so funny...

 

"Nothing Dear."

So as I'm checking the various connections I noticed the hose from the fpr to the manifold wasnt connected, so reconnected it and the car is a little better. Very low idle but eventually stalls. Checked the coolant temp sensor and see that one of the connectors is sheared off. The blue/green on is still connected though. Where is the sheared off connector supposed to go to? I couldn't find a loose connector.

Got a camera?  Many people get their sensors mixed up and spend time working on the wrong stuff.  All of the wires up there are white.

That's about as comforting as diarrhea. Butt thanks.

Because when it's all over you know you've accomplished something and you feel a lot better.  But you never want to do it again.

 

Just spent a couple of hours replacing my EFI - Pump relay because it seemed to be sticking,  Then found that it was probably just a corroded connection.  But I re-remembered a bunch of stuff and diagrammed the EFI pins.  And cleaned up the old one so it would look shiny on my desk.

Edited April 28, 20159 yr by Zed Head

here are some pics of said sensor

 

i also checked the plugs, they are getting spark put when i pulled them they seemed to be fouled and smelled of fuel

I disagree with your plug readings. That plug looks dry to me. Have you measured the fuel pressure? Have you verified that the fuel pump even runs? You can check to see if the pump runs by pulling the small spade wire connection off the starter and then turning the key to "START". The engine won't crank (because you disconnected that wire off the starter), but the pump should run.

 

Zed Head, that EFI relay looks all crispy like. I'm surprised the coil winding is still intact.

 

Edited for correctness.

Edited April 28, 20159 yr by Captain Obvious

The connector with the brown plug behind your ginger might be the coolant temperature sensor.  CO, I'm not sure that that is the thermotime switch.  The thermotime has an EV1 connection like the coolant sensor.  That's why they get mixed up.  There is a temperature switch for the second ignition circuit in the ignition module on the Federal models though, that uses wires like those, that typically get work hardened and flexed off.  

 

If you can see both EV1 connectors, the one with the bigger wrench flats, like that broken wire one in your picture, is the thermotime switch.  The coolant sensor is smaller.

 

On my relay picture - I think you're right and it wasn't corroded connections.  I dinked around with it some more after I posted that, with a 9 volt battery and a meter, and the EFI coil opened up to super high resistance and quit working.  Out of nowhere, just like the problem in the car.  When I had the problem in the car, I removed a spark plug and it was dry, even though I have a second switch to run my pump independently.  No injectors opening.

 

 

Blink, you should really get a meter and go to that ECU connector.  The ECU connectors get corroded also, so just removing it to think about it would be worth doing.

The connector with the brown plug behind your ginger might be the coolant temperature sensor.  CO, I'm not sure that that is the thermotime switch.  The thermotime has an EV1 connection like the coolant sensor.  That's why they get mixed up.  There is a temperature switch for the second ignition circuit in the ignition module on the Federal models though, that uses wires like those, that typically get work hardened and flexed off.  

 

If you can see both EV1 connectors, the one with the bigger wrench flats, like that broken wire one in your picture, is the thermotime switch.  The coolant sensor is smaller.

 

On my relay picture - I think you're right and it wasn't corroded connections.  I dinked around with it some more after I posted that, with a 9 volt battery and a meter, and the EFI coil opened up to super high resistance and quit working.  Out of nowhere, just like the problem in the car.  When I had the problem in the car, I removed a spark plug and it was dry, even though I have a second switch to run my pump independently.  No injectors opening.

 

 

Blink, you should really get a meter and go to that ECU connector.  The ECU connectors get corroded also, so just removing it to think about it would be worth doing.

 

found this picture showing alll the switches/sensors on the thermo housing. The broken one pictured above is shown in the bottom right of this picture. It looks like the temp switch not sensor. Could this be the issue or should i move onto the ecu connector?

 

Edited April 28, 20159 yr by Blinkerfluid22