Hi!

 

I have an L24 with the original E88 head on it now. This head makes bad noises and needs work, but I have an N47 head that I took from an L24e engine. Can I mount the N47 head on my early L24 block with SU's and stock head gasket without any issues? Will this give a CR bump?

 

Only concern I can come to think of is that the L24E had dishtop pistons, and I am pretty sure that the E88 L24 has flattop?

 

Just trying to find the cheapest way to get rid of the bad noises as this is just a temporary engine

 

 

 

Regards,

 

Tomzern

That head is from a Datsun 810 or something?

Bolt on, but you would need the exhaust manifold because its round port. Also need to relieve the bore for the larger exhaust valve to clear if you are at stock bore.

In the end, you should have a better running motor than the stock. Should put you 10+ to 1 and detonation resistant. Getting ready to put that head on a L28.

Sounds like you have a Maxima head. You can tell them apart by the extra sensor between number 5 & 6 spark plugs. It is not the same as the L28 N47 head. In fact its considered to be a far superior head with "closed" combustion chambers. In the Datsun world its often refered to as a MN47, the M being Maxima.

 

The MN47 had 39cc chambers where the N47 and the E88 have 44.6 or 44.7cc chambers.

It will raise your compression ratio to about 10:1 with a 1mm head gasket and a 2mm head gasket will give you about 9:1

 

Its a bolt on replacement except for the exhaust manifold has round ports with emmision liners. You will need another exhaust manifold from a L28 280Z. The 280ZX non turbo exhaust manifold will fit, but its routing for the pipe is differant to the S30 model.

 

What is the noise. Could it just be tappet adjustment? That would be the easiest way out.

 

Chas

The head is actually from a Nissan Laurel C32 found here in Europe:)

Ahh, those relieves are an issue:/ I am standing here looking at the L24e block just to know what you mean and I understand. How can I add those relieves to my old L24 block?

Here's where the valves just barely hit the bore.

 

 

Here's how to fix the problem.

 

 

But I'm rebuilding so if you want the cheapest way out I'd take the E88 to a machine shop and see how bad it is.  Maybe cheaper to fix the E88?  Probably needs new valve seats.

Edited May 8, 20159 yr by siteunseen

You will need to relieve the bore for the exhaust valve. Its the same size as the E88 on the L26 260Z @35mm diameter. The inlet valves on the MN47 are 42mm, Not 44mm like the N47 on the L28 and shouldn't be any problem.

If you do this with the engine bottom end intact and still in the car, Move the piston half way down the cylinder and tape the groove section so no grit will get into the top ring area.

You could use something like cardboard to make disc a couple mm smaller than the bore. Lay that on top of the piston and tape it to the cylinder wall. That would seal better than a dirty piston crown. Just an idea.

Cover over the other cylinders and oil passages to prevent grit entering.

Chas

Aren't we getting diverted here?  He has an L24E head for an L24 bore.  When he's done it will be like putting flat-top pistons in the L24E.  Shouldn't need any notches.  As madkaw says it should be a bolt-on.

 

Using the 39cc numbers I get 9.8 CR for the combo.

 

 

Or, fill the bore with shaving cream.  Then wipe it clean with gas.

Also need to relieve the bore for the larger exhaust valve to clear if you are at stock bore.

 

N47 or MN47 will slightly hit the cylinder wall.

N47 or MN47 will slightly hit the cylinder wall.

The "M"N47 head is from an L24 engine.  Same bore and stroke as the 240Z L24.  It's not the same as the N47 head from the L28.  

 

Nissan screwed up when they named the head used on the L24E engine.

 

Unless we're saying that the Nissan Maxima and Laurel C32 L24E blocks were relieved for valve clearance.

Edited May 8, 20159 yr by Zed Head

The "M"N47 head is from an L24 engine.  Same bore and stroke as the 240Z L24.  It's not the same as the N47 head from the L28.  

 

Nissan screwed up when they named the head used on the L24E engine.

 

Unless we're saying that the Nissan Maxima and Laurel C32 L24E blocks were relieved for valve clearance.

 

I have the L24e block that the N47 head came from, and it has relieves for the valves. 

 

I don't know if my N47 and the Maxima N47 heads are the same. Will check for the sensor between plug 5&6 tomorrow.

 

As for the exhaust manifold, I have already mounted the manifold from the L24e on my car. It was a direct replacement to the original smog manifold, except I had to cut a little in the collector pipe to make it fit the outlet flange on the L24e manifold.

 

Post #3 here shows how I did it:

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121668-w48-diamond-exhaust-manifold-on-240z/

 

So the exhaust is already in place and will not be an issue.

 

The relieves on the L24e block are milled out about 2mm into the deck. Im thinking it would be better to use som sort of milling bit on an air die grinder to make it as close to the original relieves as possible, since I have the L24e block for reference. What do you think?

 

I was planning to use a stock L24 head gasket. Are there headgaskets with relieves also, or is that not an issue?

 

The noise probably comes from worn out valve seats/guides, Have tried adjusting a dozen times, even tighter than oem specs but no difference.

 

 

Thanks,

 

Tomzern

Edited May 8, 20159 yr by Tomzern

I have the L24e block that the N47 head came from, and it has relieves for the valves. 

 

That's interesting.  I've never seen that mentioned for the factory stock Maxima L24E.  I may have missed it though.

 

I didn't think that Nissan did any valve relief on their blocks.  There's rumor about the 260Z but many people think the "reliefs" are actually from the valves nicking the bore edge.  

 

From a manufacturing perspective, it's a lot of work for not much benefit.  Best to just design the head so that it works right, and the Maxima head was only used on the L24E.  I can't imagine being the engineer that has to explain that every block needs extra machining because the valves will hit otherwise.  Just doesn't make sense.