Let me know when you're ready for one. We can probably work something out. I have also found that the database is not always accurate but I guess you get what you pay for.  I have found when looking for later model stuff if they show another part but not the one I want I can call and many times they have it, just not posted online. The trick is finding who has the car your looking for and then calling them to see if they have the parts. The other thing I do is when I call a yard and they don't have the part I want I ask them if they know who would. I keep doing this over and over. Eventually I end up finding what I want and many times those yards aren't even online.

Are you going to use the E88 header or get a new one? Ive read square covers round ports but not vice versa and was wondering for future head swaps.

Thanks Charles!

That's what I have read about exhaust options, so I will stick with my square port header.

Finally got my MN47 back from the machine shop. Didn't expect the guy to tell me he took .012 off-eek!  The CR is going up as we speak. Looks like I need to get that burret on order and start taking measurements. I want to know exactly where I'm at on this.

The really good news was that everything cleaned up nicely. The one exhaust valve that was bent didn't ruin the guide!

Now rusty looks better than warpy. I had the warped head tanked so I could play around with a clean head. I still plan on trying to straightening it.

nice! it'll be interesting to see what you wind up with for cr after all that work.

 

now for the fun part: you can get your dremel out and and bevel the sharps off the perimeter of the chamber (within the fire ring) to minimize potential hot spots. 

then port match to your intake runners and clean up the gasket to match and you're on your way to goodness.

Looking at those early photos, I didn't think that boat anchor would clean up like that. Hard to beleive its the same head.

Looks good!

 

About as deep as my E31, eeks from me too until I opened up the chambers for the valves.

 

These worked good for me,

 

Steve,

I bought a plate from Summit Racing that allows cc'ing chambers. It's a thick piece of plexiglass that you place on the head with grease as a seal. Then you use the burret or a thin graduated cylinder to fill the volume. Works really well and has repeatable results. I used the thin graduated cylinder since it doesn't need a stand.

Cliff,

I use something like that , but sparingly. All the work on this head will probably be accomplished with sand paper type bits. Those carbide bits can grab a lot material if your not careful. I did use something like that for cleaning up my mikuni intake-bad castings. The "teeth" were clogged up with aluminum which was actually a good thing, so it wouldn' t gouge the project.

I'm figuring I'm down to 38cc right now, but there is room to open up around the valve curtain. that should gain me back some. might wind up grinding reliefs in the pistons which will get me a little more. 

I am very  happy the way it cleaned up. The only signs of rust are barely seen on the pivot bushings.

 

I will be getting a burret set-up shortly. i've noticed if you stay away from the auto-performance vendors, you can order a pretty cheap set-up from a science lab web site. You can get a 50cc burret, stand, clamp for 50$ and go find a piece of plexiglass

Edited June 5, 20159 yr by madkaw

So, madcaw, have you been able to cc the machined head yet?

Nope. The Maxima project got shelved so I could finish the L24 .

Soon it will be back off the shelf though. Can't imagine I lost much size and I will be gaining it all back and then some after Unshrouding the valves. The end number is what I'm really interested in!

looks like I have aquired the elusive maxima diesel crank, and the whole damn car with it-