What would you do to your 240z if on a $3500 budget?

[tehmbrick]

If I had a $3500 chunk of change at one time, I'd be sorely tempted to buy a G37 totaled in the rear and do a transplant.

 

Man, that would be a project! I don't think I've got the technical ability or budget to get to the finish line with that type of project ... and still feeling like I want to stay low tech and old school with the L24 or L28. 

[tehmbrick]

Relay upgrades for headlights and parking lights. Brakes 100% good then suspension and struts. Coil overs are fine if you need the clearance but plenty of guys just run good struts and Eibachs. Then engine cooling but you probably already got that covered. Then interior comfort, AC, stereo, power windows maybe, seats, seat heaters????

 

I like all of that except the power windows (manual is easy enough, given how small the car is I can reach the passenger seat) and seat heaters (California climate .. not really necessary).

[tehmbrick]

I agree.  Get the electrics sorted out first.  Upgrade the ignition, then maybe AC and the wiper motor upgrade.  

 

Forgot to mention .. the previous owner put in a Pertronix ignition, so that's done. Given the drought here, the wipers don't look like a priority (unfortunately). I'm on the fence with the A/C ... going to leave that for now and see if I can live without.

[tehmbrick]

TD - I've also got a '73. If I were you I'd do the following:

- $158 - Relay upgrades for headlights http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10d06/12-4651;

- $62 - Parking Light Relay Harness from MSA - which one depends on date of manufacture of your '73;

- $199 - MSA fuse box (I installed mine 10+ yrs ago and have had no issues since) http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10a03/50-5010; 

- $130 - Upgrade to internally regulated alternator - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4068

- ~$100 - if you're still running points, do as suggested by Siteunseen, upgrade to the ZX E12-80 electronic distributor, I did this in 1998 and have had no issues since;

 

- ~$160 - inspect & replace ball joints, tie rod ends if required

- ~$100 - high performance brake pads, I've been running Hawk HP+ pads on my 240z for ten years, dusty, noisy if you don't brake hard occasionally, work good when cold but OMG do they work when warmed up! IMHO the stock brakes with upgraded pads work very well;

- ~$20 - speed bleeders for front and rear brakes, can't believe it took me 24yrs to install SB's, makes bleeding brakes a simple one man job!

- ~$20 - quality brake fluid to flush and bleed your brakes;

 

- $35 - MSA Tension rod kit, http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20j/23-4190, just installed it this winter, wish I'd done it years ago

- $14 - 2x Tension Rod Rubber bushings for the back side ot the MSA Tension rod kit (IMHO you don't want urethane bushings on the T/C rod mount);

- $600 - replacement strut cartridges, I just installed Tokico Blues

- $45 - don't forget to change the front strut bearings and rear strut spacers when you change the inserts

- $45 - strut bellows to protect your shiny new strut inserts - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1209170&parttype=7592

- $240 - lowering stiffer springs, I installed Suspension Techniques Sport Springs 15yrs ago and love the way the car handles

- $230 - sway bar kit, I installed Suspension Techniques kit 15yrs ago with above springs, love my Z's handling 

 

- $720 - front and rear JDM style clean bumpers, http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=131&Itemid=118

- $70 - early 240z front bumper mounts, required to install smaller front bumper on '73 240z, '73 rear bumper mounts will work with early rear bumper

 

Total - $2,938 + shipping, tax, etc may be close to $3,000.

 

If you do the above, I think you'd be very pleased with the results. Let us know what you chose to do and how it turns out.

 

Nice. Thanks for the detail!

 

Forgot to mention that the alternator and ignition are already done.

[tehmbrick]

Thanks, everybody, for the input. Still pretty new to this site - seems like a really solid crowd here. Surprise I haven't had a "Go look through the archives!" yet

 

My working list, right now is:

-Bumpers

-Fuse box

-Wiring clean up for front and rear lights

-Choke lever

-Struts, springs

-Inspection/replacement of suspension parts (tie rod ends, ball joints, bushings, etc.)

-Brake upgrade (not sure what kit, yet)

-Speed bleeders, brake fluid flush

 

A question - what's the rate of success with refinishing all of the glass? I have a lot of haze and scratching. I am doing some reading and see some compounds that can be used to buff this out - I'm suspicious of how successful this would be on a 40 year old car. What would a budget be for replacing all of the glass?

[Patcon]

I watched a guy buff a windshield with Meguiars "Mirror glaze" it worked pretty good. He had a large rotary buffing machine. As I get older the other window crank gets further and further away. Same with the heated seats. My bad back likes the heat even when I drive to Texas and the AcCis on in the car. Occupational hazard I guess...

[siteunseen]

If it's haze you could make it better by polishing. There's a youtube video that I liked and will do sometime soon. My red 240 has some kind of laminate separation that looks like a Greatful Dead T-shirt.

[Stanley]

First thing I did when I bought Z about 7-8 years ago was put a new windshield. I think it was $150 plus $10 tip including installation, probably more now. Makes a huge difference. Next thing was Tokico's, and MSA's poly suspension set (with certain rubber bushings recommended by MSA for street) also big difference. Cost about $1200 for struts and suspension parts and professional installation by quality shop, they also replaced cracked transmission mount. Bumpers seem crazy expensive. Stainless JDM style available from Canada for $1200 plus shipping for front and rear. It was $700 to chrome a used one with overider and guards when I got rear-ended, but the other guy's insurance paid for it. So $1200 for both sounds less horrible. Finding '73 bumpers is harder.

[madkaw]

I'm with Stanley on the windshield. Unless you have to have a windshield that says Nissan on it, buy a new one. Seeing clearly is a great thing.

I would spend the money on suspension. Try doing stuff yourself to save money and still have a reserve if you need someone to bail you out. Handling is what these cars are about.

Keep your eye out for an L28 that someone sis getting rid of cheap and jump on it and keep it for a rainy day.

Have fun!

[Patcon]

L28's on car-part.com

There are 8 in PA alone most of the engines in the query are $200-$500. Many are "$Call"

[Chickenman]

TD - I've also got a '73. If I were you I'd do the following:

- $158 - Relay upgrades for headlights http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10d06/12-4651;

- $62 - Parking Light Relay Harness from MSA - which one depends on date of manufacture of your '73;

- $199 - MSA fuse box (I installed mine 10+ yrs ago and have had no issues since) http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10a03/50-5010; 

- $130 - Upgrade to internally regulated alternator - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4068

- ~$100 - if you're still running points, do as suggested by Siteunseen, upgrade to the ZX E12-80 electronic distributor, I did this in 1998 and have had no issues since;

 

- ~$160 - inspect & replace ball joints, tie rod ends if required

- ~$100 - high performance brake pads, I've been running Hawk HP+ pads on my 240z for ten years, dusty, noisy if you don't brake hard occasionally, work good when cold but OMG do they work when warmed up! IMHO the stock brakes with upgraded pads work very well;

- ~$20 - speed bleeders for front and rear brakes, can't believe it took me 24yrs to install SB's, makes bleeding brakes a simple one man job!

- ~$20 - quality brake fluid to flush and bleed your brakes;

 

- $35 - MSA Tension rod kit, http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20j/23-4190, just installed it this winter, wish I'd done it years ago

- $14 - 2x Tension Rod Rubber bushings for the back side ot the MSA Tension rod kit (IMHO you don't want urethane bushings on the T/C rod mount);

- $600 - replacement strut cartridges, I just installed Tokico Blues

- $45 - don't forget to change the front strut bearings and rear strut spacers when you change the inserts

- $45 - strut bellows to protect your shiny new strut inserts - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1209170&parttype=7592

- $240 - lowering stiffer springs, I installed Suspension Techniques Sport Springs 15yrs ago and love the way the car handles

- $230 - sway bar kit, I installed Suspension Techniques kit 15yrs ago with above springs, love my Z's handling 

 

- $720 - front and rear JDM style clean bumpers, http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=131&Itemid=118

- $70 - early 240z front bumper mounts, required to install smaller front bumper on '73 240z, '73 rear bumper mounts will work with early rear bumper

 

Total - $2,938 + shipping, tax, etc may be close to $3,000.

 

If you do the above, I think you'd be very pleased with the results. Let us know what you chose to do and how it turns out.

^^^^That's a very good list.

If you plan on doing any night time driving I would add some Cibie H4 headlamps from Daniel Stern Lighting. They make a fantastic difference. Cibies are the best of the H4 conversions by far. And they have a Convex front glass that suites the Z-Car much better than the flat faced Bosch and Hell conversions. Better pattern than Bosch or Hella as well, IMHO. With HL relay upgrade and Cibie H4's, you will be astounded in the difference in night vision.

 

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

 

Buy the recommended H4 bulbs from Daniel Stern as well. The bulb is just as important as the rest of the Head Lamp.

Edited May 21, 2015 by Chickenman

[Chickenman]

BTW... agree 100% with Sean240Z on brakes. With good pads and rear shoes, the 240z will stop amazingly well with stock brakes.

 

I used to run a D-Production ( CCSCC not SCCA ) and we were restricted to stock brake calipers and rotors. With Ferodo DS11 pads and Nissan Comp " Green "  rear linings we were able to out brake Porsche 911S C-Production cars.

 

Street pad technology has improved dramatically since those days. The Z has more than adequate brakes due to it's light weight. The pads are easy...it's the rear brake shoes in a " quality " lining that may be tougher to find. Asbestos was an ideal material for brake shoes. Since it's banning, finding a good quality brake shoe lining has gotten a lot harder. Most of the " off the shelf " for our cars stuff is junk these days. Spend some extra money and buy specialty shoes.

 

MSA sells some Carbon Metallic shoes. I do not have any personal experience with these, but perhaps other members can advise on the quality of these or make other suggestions.

 

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21g/24-5517

Edited May 21, 2015 by Chickenman