What would you do to your 240z if on a $3500 budget?

[cbuczesk]

BTW... agree 100% with Sean240Z on brakes. With good pads and rear shoes, the 240z will stop amazingly well with stock brakes.

 

I used to run a D-Production ( CCSCC not SCCA ) and we were restricted to stock brakes. With Ferodo DS11 pads and Nissan Comp " Green "  rear linings we were able to out brake Porsche 911S C-Production cars.

 

Street pad technology has improved dramatically since those days. The Z has more than adequate brakes due to it's light weight. The pads are easy...it's the rear brake shoes in a " quality " lining that may be tougher to find. Asbestos was an ideal material for brake shoes. Since it's banning, finding a good quality brake shoe lining has gotten a lot harder. Most of the " off the shelf " for our cars stuff is junk these days. Spend some extra money and buy specialty shoes.

 

MSA sells some Carbon Metallic shoes. I do not have any personal experience with these, but perhaps other members can advise on the quality of these or make other suggestions.

 

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21g/24-5517

 

I'm with Sean and Chickenman on the brakes. Stock is great. Just get some good pads. We use Carbotech (http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp?Make=Nissan) on our race cars and they work very well. Sean made a good list. The only thing I'd change is to use urethane and rubber for the TC rod bushings. The MSA kit that uses an aluminum and ABS ball and socket is good but the ABS ball part has a short life (cracks apart). I have that ball/socket on my race car and it's still ok after 2.5 years. My friend has used that combo for years but now is running the urethane/rubber setup.

 

Chuck

[Sean240Z]

I'm with Sean and Chickenman on the brakes. Stock is great. Just get some good pads. We use Carbotech (http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp?Make=Nissan) on our race cars and they work very well. Sean made a good list. The only thing I'd change is to use urethane and rubber for the TC rod bushings. The MSA kit that uses an aluminum and ABS ball and socket is good but the ABS ball part has a short life (cracks apart). I have that ball/socket on my race car and it's still ok after 2.5 years. My friend has used that combo for years but now is running the urethane/rubber setup.

 

Chuck

I just installed the MSA TC rod bushing kit, so I'll have to keep an eye on the ABS ball. I had not previously heard that was an issue. Do you know if you can purchase replacement ABS balls?

[SeafireXV]

1. Stick with mechanical upgrades first, worry about cosmetic things later.

 

2. If you haven't switched to Hitachi/S.U. carbs yet, do so. You will get much better throttle response than with the Hitachi/Stromberg type. 

 

3. Try to find a good E31 head rather that go with an expensive L28 build. You will be surprised how hard your L24 will pull with one. Good low end torque and gobs of midrange torque. I was able to find an unused one with big valves and hardened seats with a stock "A" cam for $500.

 

4. Lower the car and put larger sway bars on it, and get some short steering knuckles.

 

5. Find a 3:70 or 3:90 R180 diff with limited slip. R200's are not necessary, and they are heavy.

 

6. Like the other guy said, stock Z brakes are quite good. They were above average in their day and are still very good with the right pads and shoes. I would switch to a rear disc setup simply because it is so hard to find good aluminum drums.

 

7. Put a rebuilt 5 speed in it. I would prefer a later 280zx unit with the taller 5th gear, and it will shift better than the T-5 type.

 

You might be able to accomplish these mods and stay within your budget, and you will be having so much fun driving it you won't care about any cosmetic upgrades!

 

 

[theshadow]

Have you considered side pipes?  They don't buy you much in terms of performance, but MAN they look good!

 

 

Mine needs a paint job and interior work (that black one ain't it, mine's in a bit of a more...uh...disassembled state.)  But if I had an abundance of funds, things I've always wanted to do include

 

• push button start
• bluetooth radio
• side exhaust
• replace the stock 280 bumpers with the slim 240 ones
• add fender flares
• reupholster the seats in leather
• add a sun roof

[Matthew Abate]

I'm sure there's a wide variety of opinions on this, but as the cars get older and there are fewer of them, I would argue that adding fender flares and/or a sun roof are not recommended.

 

Unless you have a car with rotten wheel arches. Then maybe I would add the flares. Otherwise make sure you don't ever need to sell it.

Edited May 22, 2015 by Matthew

[theshadow]

That's actually a pretty interesting point, Matt.  I'm still operating under the impression from 20 years ago when you could find a z car almost anywhere (which is dumb, because it just recently took me a good bit of time to find the one I've got now.)  For mine, I had decided against the flares for now simply as a cost measure--I've got more important necessities that need to be taken care of, whereas the wheel wells are in great shape.  But your comment is a salient one, and now I'm re-considering.  Curious as to whether or not you feel the same in regards to the v8 swap?

[Matthew Abate]

I looked at 57 cars before I found one that had the right combination of price, lack of rust, and completeness to satisfy me.

 

It's not that they aren't out there. It's that the vast majority of them are on the west coast or complete rust buckets. The availability of a good project car on the east coast sub $6,000 is terrible.

 

So my philosophy (and I really don't care what other people do, nor am I trying to convince anyone) is that if you have an S30 that has the original engine, at least use the block and hold onto the other original parts that are restorable.

 

If you don't have the original engine put what you want into it, but I would never cut a car that has a good body. These are the main reasons why I am not doing the RB26 mod. Also, I would hunt for a car knowing what mods I want to do. I was looking for a 280Z without it's original engine and no rust, but possibly beat up wheel wells *OR* a 240Z that was restorable.

 

All that said I'm sure there are plenty of more experienced Z shoppers who would disagree, and I might contradict myself in 24 hours.

Edited May 22, 2015 by Matthew

[Patcon]

I have a very similar philosophy. I like some of the modifications people do to Z cars. I think a well done RB26 is really cool and can make incredible power but I like to see those cars built out of less desirable cars or cars that need significant repairs or have already lost their drivetrains. The better well preserved cars and the lower number cars should remain original or bolt-on mods only. Of course this is only my opinion and everyone tends to have one...