Need Fuel Level Sender Connections

[psdenno]

I replaced the fuel level sender in my '71 Zs gas tank. In the process the two wiring harness connectors that fit on the sender's contact points were found to be unusable due to the rubber caps being as hard as a rock.

I checked with the Parts Department at the local Datsun dealer and the parts guy was unable to find a picture or part number for the plugs. Anyone know a part number or a suitable substitute for the connectors?

Dennis

[zKars]

The connectors are crazy things that resemble a 1/4" female spade connectors that have an extra flap that slips over and locks on the tab. There is a thread around here somewhere that discusses this and rubber cap replacements.

I just solder wires directly to the terminals and never worry about bad connections anymore. Soldering is a bit tricky, clean to bare steel, flux, hot iron, do it fast, maybe even use a silver bearing solder. Get a blob on the terminal, then melt a pre-tinned wire into the blob, again, fast and hot.

aha! I remembered where I saw them.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/250_Connectors/250_connectors.html

Go down to the "special 1P" connectors on that page

Edited May 23, 2015 by zKars

[psdenno]

The connectors are crazy things that resemble a 1/4" female spade connectors that have an extra flap that slips over and locks on the tab. I remembered where I saw them.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/250_Connectors/250_connectors.html

Go down to the "special 1P" connectors on that page

That looks like the connector minus the rubber hood. Cost for 2 is 48 cents plus $24 shipping. I'll keep looking locally or try your solder suggestion.

Thanks!

Dennis

[Freez74]

You can use ordinary female spade connectors if you spread them a little bit before you crimp them on.

[siteunseen]

That's what I did ^^^^. Then coated everything with liquid electrical tape. Not the prettiest but works good and they are removable.

[240260280z]

I like to clean the two posts then permanently solder a scavenged 6" pig tail  to these posts.  I then seal the posts.  

 

The end of the pigtail will have a water proof connector. The end of the harness that goes out through the hatch floor gets the other end of the water proof connector spliced, soldered, and sealed.

[siteunseen]

I remember a little more now after seeing a picture of mine.  I used the old unit to get the right size before crimping the wire in.  They "clicked" when they were right.  Put the old hard boots on the wire first then crimped the connector on.  Clicked them on then slathered on the liquid tape and slid the boot over the connectors.

 

I used high heat connectors like these, not the aluminiums ones with the big plastic sleeve.  If they ever come off I'll solder them on.

 

[siteunseen]

You could probably find similar rubber boots for covering the hot post on a solenoid, lawn mower or a boat motor?

 

[nix240z]

I have exact reproductions of the boots, I know a little pricey but all my products are hand made.

 

http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/5644516

 

Steve

Edited May 24, 2015 by nix240z