1973 Rebuild

[ksechler]

Nice work.  Looks almost new.

[Matthew Abate]

Okay, time for an update...

I bought another head after shipping that one with the hole in the side back to the eBay seller who didn't know what the hell he was talking about. The new one also comes from an eBay seller who doesn't know what the hell he's talking about, but this one is at least fixable.

First problem? He packed it in the world's flimsiest box and left the front bolts in it so they got bent in transit. I'm seriously lucky the head isn't cracked as a result.

The long one is the front thermostat housing stud; the short one installs at the front of the head under the valve cover.

The second problem? There's a corroded water passage at #6 cylinder. It ate into the head near the cylinder so there was both an internal leak into #6 and an external leak near the heater pipe outlet.

It might clean up with surfacing but I will need to shim the cam towers at least 0.020 inch. Otherwise, the head needs welding and resurfacing to near original specs.

This definitely caused a blown gasket and should have been disclosed in the description when it was placed up for bidding. We can work with it but I need a partial refund to cover the cost of repairs.

Just checked the original ad on eBay...

If this is the head he referred to, he's either an inexperienced engine builder, a poor mechanic, a liar, or all of the above!

I'll give him benefit of doubt and ask if he shipped the wrong head; I doubt it.

There is no way this head is ready to "bolt & go", as he claimed! The cam is rusted; the valves are rusted... but every thing can be cleaned up.

So yeah. Time to talk to the machinist.

[Zed Head]

You should post the name of the eBay sellers.  Everybody knows the eBay ratings are worthless, and forums like this are one of the few places we can get good information.

Is this head why you were asking about hydraulic pivots?  Better take a look down the water passages.  Corrosion can happen everywhere.

[Matthew Abate]

Took a look and they're in good shape.

In other news: a successful eBay purchase! $20, flawless. I think I'm going to get it powder coated in black with polished stripes and lettering.

[Captain Obvious]

Man... You don't have good luck, do ya. What did you get for $20 in that last pic? Whole thing or just the valve cover?

And I don't think that corrosion spot is going to clean up with just a head cut. I think welding will be necessary to seal that up.

[Matthew Abate]

Just the cover.

I'm trying to work out something with the seller, but my machinist confirmed that it needs welding.

If I can't work it out with the seller I'll let you guys know who it was.

In the mean time, this is the list of estimates the machinist gave me:

Weld: $150.
Resurface: $50.
Valve job: $225.

Polish Crank: $45; if it needs grinding add $95.
Clean Block: $65.
Check Crank Saddles: $60; if align honing is needed add $100.

Inspect Rods: $6.50 each; add $7.50 per rod that needs reconditioning.

Cost of boring depends on pistons but probably not more than $25 per cylinder, plus the cost of my pistons.

What do you guys think?

[grannyknot]

Matt, there has to be a Z club in NJ that you could contact and see what the members have on their shelves, at least you would be dealing with guys who are a little more honest.

Those prices seem pretty normal to me except the welding, $150 to do a 30 sec job?  Unless there is something else that needs welding other than that coolant hole, I would say he is way out of line.

[Patcon]

The welding won't take long but the prep work will take a little while and the hole below it will have to be retapped. Probably not out of line. The other numbers seem ok too

[Captain Obvious]

I've got some parts on the shelf and I'm not far from you over the bridge in PA.

I don't have a head, but I do have a valve cover that I would have parted with for $20. 

[Matthew Abate]

I'll check with you guys first from now on...

I didn't get a ton of time to work on the car today. I'm traveling for work next week and wanted to maximize family time, so this is probably it until next weekend:

Went a little crazy with the wire wheel and got it too hot in places. Might have warped it a little, but maybe that will come out when I weld it in.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Etched lines for the cuts on the driver's side.

[Patcon]

Mathew,

For where they are in the car it will be fine. I should have bead blasted them for you and saved you some time, sorry...

[Matthew Abate]

Hey, man. Do not fret! I am enjoying the process. Remember, I'm a beginner at sheet metal, so getting familiar with the material is a must.

Also, the black goop is rust converter for whomever was wondering. Wanted to stabilize it after using the wire wheels. It'll come off before the primer goes on.