Had a paint guy come over to check out the car and these colors came up:


Porsche Graphite Blue Metallic


Long Beach Blue Metallic


Flame Orange


Porsche Non Metallic Slate Grey


Audi Nardo Grey

Those gray colors used to be called "Primer Gray".  "Gray" is the American spelling.

Edited July 22, 20168 yr by Zed Head

Like the blue metallic and the flame orange...

That tank is looking good. If you really want to get that last depression pulled out, a nearby body shop probably has a stud welder and slide hammer to get it back to original.

 

That Long Beach Blue is striking! 

I'm on the fence with the Porsche graphite blue...looks like something that belongs on a Singer Porsche or maybe a 1937 Concours car.  That said, it might work.

Neither of the grays look that good to me.  Maybe they're better in person.  

The orange and blue metallic would be a coin flip.  Both look quite nice.

The problem with all those cool colors is you have to do the whole scheme for them to pop- IMHO. You'll need to black out your trim to set those modern colors off. Again, just my 2 cents. More work but well worth it. 

That's a good point I had not considered. My wife wants it to be dark metallic green, which makes the trim look fantastic, but I feel like it really needs the tan interior and I'm not willing to replace my entire interior for that.

I keep coming back to 918 or some dark solid gray like the Porsche Non Metallic Slate Grey above ("gray" may be the American spelling for the color but the name of that paint is spelled with an E on the site I pulled that photo from. [emoji6]).

When the lines of the car allow it, a non metallic color helps highlight those beautiful lines without distractions. I really like that Porsche non metallic Slate Grey for the shape of our classic Zs and chrome trim will look great on it. A black interior will fit right in as well.

Having said that, I opted for a Lamborghini orange pearl from the 2015 Aventador (Arancio Argos Pearl) on my Z. That paint uses the same base pigment as the Datsun 110 orange and that helped me wrap my mind around the color change.

Edited July 25, 20168 yr by dmoralesbello

Something else to consider: bring all of your stainless trim up to a high polish finish with a buffing wheel and jeweler's rouge.  The high visibility items (door handles, window frames, drip rails) will add a lot of "pop" to your paint finish.  Don't overlook the little items like the side marker light frames and windshield/hatch gasket inserts.  I did all of this and am well pleased with the outcome.

Looks like some people are wondering WTF I am up to with the engine build because I keep posting random stuff about it. Here is the current plan, but not me that I have already adjusted my plan a couple of times from the original original original plan, but this is how I build my guitars and this is how I build digital medical devices, so it works.

My team of builders are my dad, a jet technician who builds corvette, mustang, sprint car, and drone engines on the side, and Lary Peto from Larry's Engine & Marine in Tucson, AZ.

~

F54 block and crank
P90 head (mechanical lifters)
L24 rods with ARP 9mm bolts
87mm Wiseco domed forged pistons yielding 9.75 CR

The cam is still up in the air.
The carbs will either be SUs with a 260 intake manifold and '72 balance tube or triple 40pph Mikunis on a Harada manifold.

The headers with either be Trust or Fujitsubo unless I decide to keep the EGR and can't figure out where to tap the exhaust system, in which case it will be the MSA '73 header.

All comments and advice are much appreciated.

Are you using the longer rods with custom pistons to get a "better" rod angle?  I've seen these fine detail manipulations discussed before but it seems like another cost/benefit questionable.

Don't want to be a buzzkill.  Just seems like the funds could have more impact elsewhere.

Discuss...

How are dealing with the 3mm