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1973 Rebuild


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Here's the list of what 28,000 gets me:

Remove suspension front and rear

Mount on frame rack for floor and sub-frame rail replacement

Remove left sub-frame rail and floor pan

Test fit left new floor pan and weld in

Test fit new sub-frame rail and weld in

Fabricate panel to fill in gap from factory rail to replacement, weld in. LEFT

Remove right sub-frame rail and floor pan

Test fit right new floor pan and weld in

Test fit new right sub-frame rail and weld in

Fabricate panel to fill in gap from factory rail to replacement, weld in. RIGHT

Test fit, weld in and metal finish rear seat compartment box "walls"

Remove off frame rack

Mount on rotisserie

Scrape off loose undercoating from underside of car.

Media blast body, body parts and various other pieces.

Body work roof.

Body work left quarter panel

Body work right quarter panel

Body work left door

Body work right door

Body work hood

Body work left fender

Body work right fender

Body work hatch

Clearance a pillars where fenders were rubbing.

Test fit all body panels to ensure proper fit before priming

Remove panels for high build priming

Mask body and set up fenders

Prime body and fenders

Set up doors, hatch and hood and high build prime them

Block out high build prime on body and panels to prep for final priming

Mask body and set up fenders

Final prime body and fenders

Set up doors, hatch and hood. Spray final primer.

Wet sand body to prep for paint

Scuff inside of car, underside of car and engine bay to prep for paint

Mask off exterior of car

Spray lizard skin on underside floor pan, interior floor pan and roof skin

Clean and spray engine bay, interior and underside. (Color to be determined)

Remove car from rotisserie.

Install suspension front and rear

Prep fenders for paint.

Mask body for paint

Clean, seam seal and paint body and fenders

Prep hatch for paint

Prep left door for paint

Prep right door for paint

Prep hood for paint

Prep headlight buckets for paint

Prep other small parts for paint.

Set up doors, hatch, hood and parts for paint

Clean, seam seal and paint parts

Sand and buff quarters and roof

Sand and buff left door

Install left door (includes installing main door weatherstripping and latch assembly)

Sand and buff right door

Install right door (includes installing main door weatherstripping and latch assembly)

Sand and buff left fender

Install left fender

Install right fender

Sand and buff hood

Install hood hinges and hood

Sand and buff hatch

Install hatch (includes weatherstripping and latch)

Sand and buff cowl panel

Install cowl panel

Shop Supplies

Misc. Shop Supplies (sanding discs, grinding discs, tape, masking paper, etc)

Paint 1 Primers, reducers, paints, etc.


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No offense, but couldn't you buy two cars that are already done for $28,000?  Just curious about what the final product is meant to be.  Is it just a nice driver, a show car, a track car?  

The way this reads, you get a painted empty body delivered back to you.  Is that right?  

Just wondering, why?  Your money of course, really just trying to absorb what the project is about.

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That's a lot of work and for where you live the numbers probably aren't out of line. I would recommend you don't have them cut and buff anything until after you have the car assembled. You are likely to damage a panel somewhere and they could touch it up before buffing it out...

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That's a lot of work and for where you live the numbers probably aren't out of line. I would recommend you don't have them cut and buff anything until after you have the car assembled. You are likely to damage a panel somewhere and they could touch it up before buffing it out...



This is the problem. For where I live this is about what I get from every shop. I am seriously considering sending the car to Arizona to have it done for about $10,000 less.
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Just wondering what it will be when it's done.  It's purpose.  Maybe the stroker engine does belong in there.  I tend to look at things and think "that was money/effort well-spent" or the opposite.  Just seems like a lot of money to get back to a basic 1973 240Z.  Don't mean to be a buzz-kill, just trying to comprehend.

You did offer up a variety of scenarios for review, but they all seemed costly to me.  And for $1000 shipping fee, you could save $9000.  That's a Rebello engine.

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Me individually, or the topic?  Or your car?  I can stop.  

We're all just out here watching what's going on with other people's projects.  Red Bird is winning awards and it's a low-budget, survivor 280Z.  People spend tons on restorations or on race cars,  I'm just wondering...

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