Great! Thanks.


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Can anyone recommend an alternate gland nut to the ones that came with my illuminas? I’m not happy with how soft the metal is nor how thin the edge is where the wrench grabs. I’m seeing some rounding and I haven’t even tightened them that hard.

 

The ones that were on the car before won’t work. They were mismatched and in terrible condition.

 

Pretty sure you'd have to have one custom-made.  The nut is specially designed by Tokico to fit the top of the strut/shock and the top of the Datsun tube.  Basically, three separate parts have to fit together.

Bummer. Maybe I’m just overtightening it.


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Got a lot going on, which I will post up when I finish, but in the mean time I have a question. I almost started a thread for this but I melt like I should ask here first.

 

I am planning to spay ceramic sound deadener, heat shield, and undercoat on the car. My question is where would you guys put these?

 

The painter suggested:

• heat shield just on the firewall and over the forward part of the transmission hump, inside the cabin

• Sound deadener inside the doors, on the floor inside the whole cabin, and inside the roof

• And undercoat under the entire car stopping where the transmission jump bends and you can see it from the engine bay, as well as inside the wheel wells and the inside of the front fenders.

 

I am not super knowledgeable on these three things and totally willing to entertain suggestions on changing this. Please hit me with what you think is optimal.

 

Remember this is a resto-mod, so I am going for function driving form, not historical accuracy.

 

 

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I shot lizard skin heat shield on the inside of the roof skin and pretty much all of the floor area and fire wall. Then I shot sound deadener over all that and the inside of the doors, quarters and spare tire well. I shot under-coater over the entire bottom side of the car up to the entrance to the tunnel, where I switched to the engine bay paint. I also shot under coater on the inside of the fenders and all the wheel wells got it when I did the under side of the car. All of he under coater was shot over epoxy primer. You can probably tell how I did my build thread.

Clear coat everything! ;)

 

It’s been a while since I posted progress, so I thought I would throw some photos up:

 

 

Note the helicoil that came out with this bolt:

 

Time-sert installation:

 

Finishing:

 

New bearing cups in:

 

Body status:

 

Carbs back from Z Therapy:

 

Hoping to have the rotors and hubs on the struts by the end of the weekend. The weather has been hot and humid so I’m not certain the paint will be cured on my dust shields by then, though.

 

After that is scrounging up the hardware that holds the suspension on the car, getting some cheep tires on the old mags, and getting the suspension out to the painter after the undercoat is on.

 

Running a custom harness is not bad, when I got my car the front engine harness was snipped, I wanted to use the OEM under dash connectors so i sourced a harness that was repairable.

All you really need is a voltmeter, new wiring in various lengths, crimp / pin removal tools, connectors ( www.vintageconnections.com has very nice stuff) you will also need a wiring diagram that you can trace out for the car, which should be easy to get your hands on.

I lay mine out on the floor and just trace the lines I want out, I also took the liberty to modify the harness to have alternator upgrades/voltmeter/emergency switch bypass all inside the loom. 260zs truely are the bastard children.

After the modifications were done I placed it back into the car, and tested it out, worked with no issues. It takes time however, I have time, but no money [emoji22]... also learned the electrical system inside and out so that was cool.

Edited August 14, 20186 yr by heyitsrama

Looks great!

You didn't blast the body shell yourself, did you? You took that to someone else, right?

I got about half way and ran out of vacation days and sand, so Blast Lab finished it.


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Got the hubs and rotors together...

 

... but...

 

... notice anything?

 

The hub bolts are protruding. They will hit the wheel if I leave them like that and prevent a solid mating surface between the hub and wheel.

This could mean one of, or a combination of, three things: the new bolts are longer than the OEM bolts, the new lock washers are thinner than the OEM lock washers, or the new rotors are thinner at the mounting point than the OEM rotors.

I’m going to pull a bolt and double check the length as soon as I have time, but I suspect that it’s the rotor. They have a recess where the bolt hole is and I think it’s too deep.

If the new bolts and washers are the same measurements as the OEM bolts I’ll have two options: grind the bolts shorter or find thicker lock washers.