i Haven’t found anything on Craigslist but I have found several on eBay or on retailer sites.

another question: does anyone know if these two holes are factory or if I should close them up?

 

 

You're looking up into the passenger floorboard from the front right wheel well.

Edited May 10, 20195 yr by Matthew Abate

Those are the AC drains. Added if the car had dealer installed AC

Did you use Searchtempest?

19 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Those are the AC drains. Added if the car had dealer installed AC

Did you use Searchtempest?

Thanks.

Yes. I found three that might work. It's hard to evaluate one of these on the photos people post. We all have different ideas of what "straight" means.

2 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Thanks.

Yes. I found three that might work. It's hard to evaluate one of these on the photos people post. We all have different ideas of what "straight" means.

Oh, I agree. Sort of like "rust free Z". I would just try to get more pics. Especially if it's being shipped. Becomes more important the further it is. Good you have leads

Got a good on eBay. A little surface rusty but should work out. Fingers crossed!

Okay, questions for everyone:

I had to go get a new cover and input flange for the Subaru r180 that I refreshed, and once I got it all together I noticed some lash or play in the front. I didn’t have this with the previous input flange, but that may have been masked by the dent in the collar, which is what motivated me to replace it.

Here’s a video. You can hear a knocking sound when I wiggle the flange:

When I did this refresh, I replaced everything but the bearings. It only had about 10,000 miles on it (it’s off a 2014 WRX STI) so I figured they were okay. I DID replace the side shims, but I used the exact same amount of shim on each side as the ones I pulled. I also did not measure the lash with dealer gauges(probably my biggest mistake), because I had matched the shim measurement and the bearings were the same.

My Datsun diff does not have this problem. Right now I’m thinking I need thicker shims on one or both sides, but I wanted to see what people think the issue is before I tear it apart again. If you think I need bearings I should do that at the same time. Regardless, it looks like I need a dial gauge because I don’t think I can measure this with feeler gauges.

Thoughts?

Edited June 9, 20195 yr by Matthew Abate

This measurement is the one that determines gear "play", and describes how to adjust it.

I’m buying a dial indicator tonight so I can do this. I’m thinking I scrambled my shims in reassembly, but I’m going to measure the bearing preload before I do anything. If that’s off then my total shim measurement is wrong. If it’s right then at least that’s a starting point and all I have to figure out is how off the backlash is.

right?

Just took at look at the paint samples my painter laid down yesterday. They look GREAT! That orange is browner than I thought, but it matches the photos and samples I have.

I forgot to take pictures, but I’ll see if I can get him to send me some.

Edited July 18, 20195 yr by Matthew Abate

Looks like we’re within specifications (.1 to .2 mm)! Time to close it up and call this p.i.t.a. done.

 

Edited July 19, 20195 yr by Matthew Abate

Done. Mogul Gear 300 75w90. Bolts triple checked for torque. New gaskets, new everything except the case, bearings, and gears.

 

No leaks. I had to scrap the old cover because the mating surface was shot from sitting in. Yard for years. Luckily the case is fine, and a new cover and gasket solved the problem.

Edited July 19, 20195 yr by Matthew Abate

23 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Just took at look at the paint samples my painter laid down yesterday. They look GREAT! That orange is browner than I thought, but it matches the photos and samples I have.

I forgot to take pictures, but I’ll see if I can get him to send me some.

Did you go with #918?  That's what i have and it has a brownish tint too.  It looks darn good though to me.  Here's a shot of mine right after a cutting and wax.