1973 Rebuild

[Matthew Abate]

i Haven’t found anything on Craigslist but I have found several on eBay or on retailer sites.

another question: does anyone know if these two holes are factory or if I should close them up?

 

 

You're looking up into the passenger floorboard from the front right wheel well.

Edited May 10, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[Patcon]

Those are the AC drains. Added if the car had dealer installed AC

Did you use Searchtempest?

[Matthew Abate]

19 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Those are the AC drains. Added if the car had dealer installed AC

Did you use Searchtempest?

Thanks.

Yes. I found three that might work. It's hard to evaluate one of these on the photos people post. We all have different ideas of what "straight" means.

[Patcon]

2 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Thanks.

Yes. I found three that might work. It's hard to evaluate one of these on the photos people post. We all have different ideas of what "straight" means.

Oh, I agree. Sort of like "rust free Z". I would just try to get more pics. Especially if it's being shipped. Becomes more important the further it is. Good you have leads

[Matthew Abate]

Got a good on eBay. A little surface rusty but should work out. Fingers crossed!

[Matthew Abate]

Okay, questions for everyone:

I had to go get a new cover and input flange for the Subaru r180 that I refreshed, and once I got it all together I noticed some lash or play in the front. I didn’t have this with the previous input flange, but that may have been masked by the dent in the collar, which is what motivated me to replace it.

Here’s a video. You can hear a knocking sound when I wiggle the flange:

When I did this refresh, I replaced everything but the bearings. It only had about 10,000 miles on it (it’s off a 2014 WRX STI) so I figured they were okay. I DID replace the side shims, but I used the exact same amount of shim on each side as the ones I pulled. I also did not measure the lash with dealer gauges(probably my biggest mistake), because I had matched the shim measurement and the bearings were the same.

My Datsun diff does not have this problem. Right now I’m thinking I need thicker shims on one or both sides, but I wanted to see what people think the issue is before I tear it apart again. If you think I need bearings I should do that at the same time. Regardless, it looks like I need a dial gauge because I don’t think I can measure this with feeler gauges.

Thoughts?

Edited June 9, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[Zed Head]

This measurement is the one that determines gear "play", and describes how to adjust it.

[Matthew Abate]

I’m buying a dial indicator tonight so I can do this. I’m thinking I scrambled my shims in reassembly, but I’m going to measure the bearing preload before I do anything. If that’s off then my total shim measurement is wrong. If it’s right then at least that’s a starting point and all I have to figure out is how off the backlash is.

right?

[Matthew Abate]

Just took at look at the paint samples my painter laid down yesterday. They look GREAT! That orange is browner than I thought, but it matches the photos and samples I have.

I forgot to take pictures, but I’ll see if I can get him to send me some.

Edited July 18, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

Looks like we’re within specifications (.1 to .2 mm)! Time to close it up and call this p.i.t.a. done.

 

Edited July 19, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

Done. Mogul Gear 300 75w90. Bolts triple checked for torque. New gaskets, new everything except the case, bearings, and gears.

 

No leaks. I had to scrap the old cover because the mating surface was shot from sitting in. Yard for years. Luckily the case is fine, and a new cover and gasket solved the problem.

Edited July 19, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[siteunseen]

23 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Just took at look at the paint samples my painter laid down yesterday. They look GREAT! That orange is browner than I thought, but it matches the photos and samples I have.

I forgot to take pictures, but I’ll see if I can get him to send me some.

Did you go with #918?  That's what i have and it has a brownish tint too.  It looks darn good though to me.  Here's a shot of mine right after a cutting and wax.