1973 Rebuild

[Patcon]

20 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Okay, gonna ask a noob question, but better to ask that blow it:

I’ve been looking but can’t find a new part number for the two snap rings that is cross referenced to the old part numbers (48265-78500 & 48271-78500). How did you solve this problem? Is this something I can just measure and buy from Napa or something?

Edit: I did find a Nissan part site that had some numbers I’m not familiar with associated with these part numbers: 48265-78500 had T=1.04-1.14, and 48271-78500 had T=1.55-1.60.

I am assuming that I can just buy an assorted box of snap rings similar to a box of cotter pins and should be good to go, right?

If you are referring to the internal and external snaps to the right of center in the picture. I reused mine. I agree with Zed if you don't damage them, once they are back in place they should be good to go.

[Matthew Abate]

I don’t think they are damaged, but they don’t lay flat, which is what had me thinking I should replace them.

[Matthew Abate]

Status:

 

 

I’m waiting for zerk fittings to come in the mail. Then reassembly.

Edited November 8, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

Got about half way this evening. Had to stop because I don’t have a 38mm socket for the torque wrench. I’m maybe a tiny bit concerned I have the pinion one tooth off from pointing straight up at dead center, but I think it’s right.

 

Edited November 9, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[Patcon]

Looks good

[Matthew Abate]

Ran into a jam. I have a box for a left-side Moog outer tie rod end (ES2110r) that has a right-side TRE (ES2109r) in it. Trying to figure out if this is a packaging error or if they don’t make reverse-threaded ones anymore.

 

The reason this is an issue NOW is if I can’t get a reverse-treaded OTRE then I can’t use the adjustable, properly-threaded ITREs that came on the car. In that case I will have to use the crimped-together ones I got from Nissan and will have a goofy time doing the alignment. Otherwise, it’s not an issue, because I have all of that stuff on hand. I just need an answer from Moog as to whether the box had the wrong part or they don’t do reverse threads on their left OTREs (in which case why have a different part number?).

Edited November 9, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

Things are happening today!

 

[Matthew Abate]

Question: is this an AC drain tube hole?

 

The body shop and I are debating what to do about it. I’m thinking cut it to be nice for a rubber grommet but keep it since I plan to put a Restomod Air system in.

Edit: I just got off the phone with Restomod Air. They recommended cutting it to fit a 5/8” rubber grommet so the 1/2” drain tube from their Vapor II system can run through there.

Edited November 11, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

In other news, I went with undercoating on the floor, mostly to black it out when viewed from the side.

Edited November 11, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[Patcon]

Yes that is the AC drain

[Matthew Abate]

Made progress today...

 

They forgot the sway-bar reinforcements, so they started that. Not pleased about the sequencing of this but they assured me it will be great in the end. ?

 

I put the rear suspension in:

 

I put the front suspension in:

 

 

And it looks like a car again! No more spaceship z.

Theres still a pile to do, including fixing some things they already sprayed, but it’s coming along. Panels and doors should be getting gapped shortly.

Edited November 12, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

Question:

is there a difference between 250z doors and 280z doors? The bottom of one of my doors does not meet the rocker correctly. It sticks out about a quarter inch. We checked the shape of the car and it’s not that. I’m asking the shop to measure the doors to compare them.

the only things I could think of are the holes are drilled wrong or one of them is off a 280 and 280 doors are different.