1973 Rebuild

[Matthew Abate]

When I looked at the advance curves spreadsheet that Walter Moore put together I saw that he recommended against the 80-83 distributors because the mechanical and vacuum advances together were potentially dangerous, so I was prioritizing the 79 in my search.

However, I have found one or two errors in that data so maybe it’s not the case.

Edited December 3, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[240260280]

You can adjust vacuum advance too. There is a set screw on the front of many "pots". These screws control the rotation of the breaker plate.

[Matthew Abate]

I did not know that. Everything I’ve read about this pushes the ‘79 specifically.

It’s been maybe 27 years since I rebuilt a distributor so I kinda forgot how they work. Clearly I wasn’t paying attention that day in class. I’ll dig into it.

i still want to know what people are asking for one, though. What I’ve found online isn’t great, but I’ve found a bunch of scrap yards quoting $40 to 125.

Edited December 4, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[240260280]

@EuroDat helps out: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59492-wtb-280zx-distributor-e12-80/?tab=comments#comment-541677

 

[madkaw]

8 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

When I looked at the advance curves spreadsheet that Walter Moore put together I saw that he recommended against the 80-83 distributors because the mechanical and vacuum advances together were potentially dangerous, so I was prioritizing the 79 in my search.

However, I have found one or two errors in that data so maybe it’s not the case.

Depending on your build you might not want tor need the vacuum advance . I didn’t run one and ran between 17-20 degrees initial and had 35-38 all in . Ultimate would be a compromise between mechanical and vacuum , but if there is probably going to be a failure in any part of those dizzies it’s the vacuum advance . 

[Matthew Abate]

14 hours ago, madkaw said:

Depending on your build you might not want tor need the vacuum advance . I didn’t run one and ran between 17-20 degrees initial and had 35-38 all in . Ultimate would be a compromise between mechanical and vacuum , but if there is probably going to be a failure in any part of those dizzies it’s the vacuum advance . 

Here's a quick recap of the engine @Takhli is building me:

• F54 block with 87mm bore
• L28 Crank with factory 79mm stroke
• L24 connecting rods (133mm long)
• P90a head converted to static rocker pivots
• CompCams Stage 1 camshaft
• Custom JE pistons designed for 9.80:1 compression and relieved for valve clearance
• Round-top SU carburetors on a European balance tube
• Various other optimized parts (flywheel, etc.)
• Deleted smog system

Things I may do in the future (if I don't do them for the initial build):

• Replace the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one
• Switch to FI
• Switch to COP/DIS

Edited December 4, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[240260280]

Stock bore and stroke?

[Matthew Abate]

11 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

Stock bore and stroke?

• 87mm bore
• The crank is from the L28 F54 block, so factory 79mm
• The L24 rods are 133mm long
• The pistons are designed around these mods and the P90a head and relieved for valve clearance.

Edited my previous post for clarity.

[Matthew Abate]

Been slow with the new job and all the craziness lately, but here’s where things are at the moment:

 

Edited March 15, 2020 by Matthew Abate

[dmorales-bello]

Great progress, Nice job!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Matthew Abate]

More progress from today:

 

[Matthew Abate]

UPDATE FROM THURSDAY

 

Edited April 4, 2020 by Matthew Abate