When I looked at the advance curves spreadsheet that Walter Moore put together I saw that he recommended against the 80-83 distributors because the mechanical and vacuum advances together were potentially dangerous, so I was prioritizing the 79 in my search.

However, I have found one or two errors in that data so maybe it’s not the case.

Edited December 3, 20195 yr by Matthew Abate

You can adjust vacuum advance too. There is a set screw on the front of many "pots". These screws control the rotation of the breaker plate.

I did not know that. Everything I’ve read about this pushes the ‘79 specifically.

It’s been maybe 27 years since I rebuilt a distributor so I kinda forgot how they work. Clearly I wasn’t paying attention that day in class. I’ll dig into it.

i still want to know what people are asking for one, though. What I’ve found online isn’t great, but I’ve found a bunch of scrap yards quoting $40 to 125.

Edited December 4, 20195 yr by Matthew Abate

@EuroDat helps out: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59492-wtb-280zx-distributor-e12-80/?tab=comments#comment-541677

 

8 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

When I looked at the advance curves spreadsheet that Walter Moore put together I saw that he recommended against the 80-83 distributors because the mechanical and vacuum advances together were potentially dangerous, so I was prioritizing the 79 in my search.

However, I have found one or two errors in that data so maybe it’s not the case.

Depending on your build you might not want tor need the vacuum advance . I didn’t run one and ran between 17-20 degrees initial and had 35-38 all in . Ultimate would be a compromise between mechanical and vacuum , but if there is probably going to be a failure in any part of those dizzies it’s the vacuum advance . 

14 hours ago, madkaw said:

Depending on your build you might not want tor need the vacuum advance . I didn’t run one and ran between 17-20 degrees initial and had 35-38 all in . Ultimate would be a compromise between mechanical and vacuum , but if there is probably going to be a failure in any part of those dizzies it’s the vacuum advance . 

Here's a quick recap of the engine @Takhli is building me:

• F54 block with 87mm bore
• L28 Crank with factory 79mm stroke
• L24 connecting rods (133mm long)
• P90a head converted to static rocker pivots
• CompCams Stage 1 camshaft
• Custom JE pistons designed for 9.80:1 compression and relieved for valve clearance
• Round-top SU carburetors on a European balance tube
• Various other optimized parts (flywheel, etc.)
• Deleted smog system

Things I may do in the future (if I don't do them for the initial build):

• Replace the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one
• Switch to FI
• Switch to COP/DIS

Edited December 4, 20195 yr by Matthew Abate

Stock bore and stroke?

11 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

Stock bore and stroke?

• 87mm bore
• The crank is from the L28 F54 block, so factory 79mm
• The L24 rods are 133mm long
• The pistons are designed around these mods and the P90a head and relieved for valve clearance.

Edited my previous post for clarity.

Been slow with the new job and all the craziness lately, but here’s where things are at the moment:

 

Edited March 15, 20205 yr by Matthew Abate

Great progress, Nice job!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

More progress from today:

 

UPDATE FROM THURSDAY

 

Edited April 4, 20205 yr by Matthew Abate