1973 Rebuild

[charliekwin]

My approach was to remove all the stock tar mat, then small Dynamat pieces on large flat panels, and finished with mass-loaded vinyl with closed-cell foam backing. I picked that up about 7 or 8 years ago when I was active on DIY Mobile Audio and is what SDS was promoting as well. There might be a new hotness these days, but I've been very happy with it. I didn't do any decibel readings before/after (should have), but it's considerably quieter --and cooler!-- than it was. I'm not a fan of using Dynamat sheets on the whole panel; I don't think the cost and weight is worth it. Plus installing (and removing, if you need to) that stuff is a real PITA.

[Matthew Abate]

18 minutes ago, charliekwin said:

My approach was to remove all the stock tar mat, then small Dynamat pieces on large flat panels, and finished with mass-loaded vinyl with closed-cell foam backing.

 

Very cool. Thanks. How did you do the headliner? I’ve been puzzling over how to make a smooth surface that the vinyl liner will stick to.

Edited July 7, 2020 by Matthew Abate

[charliekwin]

I covered the roof entirely in Dynamat...needed a flat surface, like you said. Was a mistake to do that before I did body and paint, but you're doing it in the right order ? 

[Patcon]

8 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Was quoted $10k and six months. Paid $16k and took three years. Granted, there were some surprises, but mostly created on their side, like when they waffled the hood over-blasting it so I needed to find a replacement.

It was just not a great experience for me. Maybe that’s because my expectations were off, but they didn’t manage my expectations at all.

Thanks for the feedback. I would say 10k is not out of line but I would have high expectations at that price. I'm not surprised by the timetable being off too. It seems like every car I hear about takes longer to paint than expected. Has it really been 3 years already???

[Matthew Abate]

Yeah. I think I would be driving it if they had gotten it done in the first year, or at least ready for the engine.

[Patcon]

32 minutes ago, Matthew Abate said:

Yeah. I think I would be driving it if they had gotten it done in the first year, or at least ready for the engine.

Paint is really the big hump in a project. The rest can really come together pretty quick.

[Matthew Abate]

Back to the sound proofing, my dad went with Quietride for his mustang. They have a Z kit pre cut for just under $700, which seems steep but saves time.

It looks like the required amount of Dynamat sheets would be $160 to $200 if I went with Amazon or something similar, and then I need the foam, which I haven’t priced yet.

Noico makes an 80 mil butyl deadener that is $65 for 36 sq/ft. I need to look into it more, but I’m really curious what the story with that is.

Edited July 16, 2020 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

Okay, I’m stuck on something:

I bought my stainless fuel and brake lines way back, and now that I’m trying to get them in, they aren’t looking right. Here’s a shot of how I have them right now, but I can’t find any good photos to verify that this is correct.

The main fuel line is bent in such a way that it ends up on the left side, but that looks wrong to me. Isn’t that line supposed to go along the right side with the return line? The bends just look wrong to me.

 

 

This all looks like a mess to me. This is supposedly the ‘73 kit from Z Car Depot by Classic Tube, which I’m realizing now was probably a mistake because I’m going with a ‘72 Euro configuration for the fuel system. But there are other issues beyond the engine bay. The fit is just poorly.

can anyone help me figure this out?

Edited July 19, 2020 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

Okay, so I think I really goofed it. Looks like I’ll be ordering a whole new set of lines. Z Car Depot has three lines:

Fuel Line Stainless Steel Tank to Carb 240Z 70-72, $179.00

Fuel Line Vapor Stainless Steel 240Z 1972, $179.00

Fuel Return Line Stainless Steel 240Z 70-72 , $149.00

Major bummer.

___

The questions I have now are these:

Can I use the ‘73 return line I have?

Do I need the vapor line?

What do I do with the lines I have?

Edited July 19, 2020 by Matthew Abate

[jfa.series1]

I'm not sure what a Euro configuration should look like but this looks like you are missing either the supply line or return line completely. The line running to the left side should be the fuel tank vapor line that connects to the flow guide valve mounted below the coil. The diameter of the line on the right side will clue you as to what is missing - the supply line is significantly larger than the return line.

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/fuel-piping

[Matthew Abate]

Yeah, I’m missing the main supply line.

The euro setup deletes smog stuff. Does anyone know if this line crossing to the left is the right vapor line or will work? Pretty sure it’s the ‘73 one, but my car didn’t come with this line and I don’t see the mounts.

I’m having trouble finding clear photos or diagrams of where that line mounts and attaches to the engine.

Edited July 19, 2020 by Matthew Abate

[jfa.series1]

Matt - here's a pic of the flow guide valve, slightly diferent versions on each year but essentially the same.

It mounts to the inner fender wall beneath the ballast resistor.

Check this diagram for the hose routing - one line from the small tube on the crankcase breather pipe, one short hose from the tank vapor line in your pic, one line to the back of the air filter to feed the vapors into the carbs. The valve is #57.

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/emission-control-device