1973 Rebuild

[Matthew Abate]

Okay, so even though I greatly prefer the look of that little brass one, I’ve decided to go with the Willwood valve I have for two reasons: 1) I have it on hand, and 2) I suck at fabricating brackets and the Willwood looks like I can use the factory mounting hardware after some persuading.

I also would rather not have to use the adapters. If it came in m10 I might have changed my mind. Plus, the Willwood won’t ever go to complete shut off, so I can’t accidentally turn off my rear brakes under any circumstance, as you could theoretically with the brass one.

Edited September 24, 2020 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

Anyone have any idea what the torque for the two m21 plugs on the sides of the distribution block might be? I want to make sure those new copper washers seal completely, but not ruin them.

[Patcon]

No idea.

Would be surprised if its published anywhere. I dont think they really expected the part to be serviced. Maybe you could interpolate a value based on the bolt size and threads

[Matthew Abate]

Okay, it’s been a while because I was stuck on how to mount the proportioning valve, but I think I have figured it out.

Home Depot has chrome spacers that are close to the same outside diameter as the Nissan spacers, but in a variety of lengths from 1/4” to 1”. The problem is the inside diameter is 3/8ths and the bolt that needs to go through them is m6. To solve that problem I found some nylon tubing in the plumbing section that is just over 6mm ID and 3/8ths OD that I cut to the length of the spacers to act as a bushing.

 

 

Sorry that some of those are blurry, but I think you get the idea. That last one shows the m6 stainless bolts I bought to replace the original 50mm hex bolts. Unfortunately, they are threaded the entire length and don’t have a grip, but they match what I am using on the engine and I think the nylon mitigates the need for the grip enough to use them. It’s not like they are holding the engine together. I selected lengths that give me as close to the same number of threads to the original configuration as possible.

Trial fitting happens this weekend.

Edited October 16, 2020 by Matthew Abate

[Captain Obvious]

Nice adaptation! I would probably have spent hours turning a spacer out of titanium or something.

And then slapped myself in the forehead when I saw what you did. 

[wheee!]

I just bolted mine over the stock safety valve.

[grannyknot]

And one more version,

 

[Patcon]

3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

And one more version,

 

Did you fab the bracket from scratch GK?

[grannyknot]

Yup, it is just soft aluminum plate.

[Patcon]

Very clean looking

[Matthew Abate]

11 hours ago, wheee! said:

I just bolted mine over the stock safety valve.

Why did you keep the original valve, too? What am I missing?

[wheee!]

The original prop valve is very close to where my brakes are proportioned. I have the AZC trak pak of huge Wilwood’s front and rear. Paired with the 15/16” Master, the Wilwood prop valve is only for fine tuning. Most people have told me it isn’t necessary and I have it set wide open for the moment. I’ll adjust as needed.