1973 Rebuild

[Matthew Abate]

Had several setbacks this month…

Setback #1.

The u-joint was a major PITA to get in and I ruined the first one putting it in, so I had to wait an additional two weeks for a replacement.

While I waited I built myself a hydraulic press. It’s really just a box my bottle jack fits in, but it does the job.

 

With that I was able to get the steering shaft back together the right way. The u-joint isn’t as nice in real life as the photo on Amazon indicated. Go figure.

 

Restaking that thing was super tough, but I got it done and nothing is moving.

—-

Setback #2.

I cannot seem to get the nuts on the tie rods that connect the lower control arms to the frame in the front of the car. Because the suspension is sagging they don’t protrude far enough, and the rubber bushings are brand new so they don’t give enough to cram it on.

This is a problem because I need my suspension to compress a bit to keep the brake lines from getting pulled taught and sitting there under tension while I do other stuff (yes they are the right length). Tightening this up will create the slack I want. Since the engine is out I have to figure out another way to get some weight on the front to settle things in place and get that tightened up. Sandbags maybe?

—-

Setback #3 (This really pissed me off).

It turns out the differential I bought that supposedly came out of a 2014 Subaru WRX STI is NOT out of an STI. If it was it would be the LSD I wanted. Instead it is open, which means it is from a WRX, Outback, or Forester. Unfortunately I’ve had it too long to complain or get any compensation.

So all that time and money I spent rebuilding it is semi-wasted.

The reason I noticed is I realized that I didn’t want a 3.9 rear end, which the STI also has. When I put the adapters in and checked the ratios this evening I noticed the sides rotated opposite directions. NOT AN LSD!!!

So what I have is an immaculate r180 with an open differential and a 3.54 ratio. Not ideal, but slightly quicker than stock. It’s essentially the same as the dif for an automatic.

Now I have to decide how much I care about having an LSD. Do I go buy the correct carrier from Subaru for $750? That’s a Torsten style and would be nice. Do I get a fancy aftermarket dif for over a grand? Those are helical and probably overkill. Or do I live with this thing on my bench. Easiest and cheapest but I’m the kind of person who is forever bothered by things not being “right.”

Putting my Datsun dif back in is also an option, but it would need a rebuild.

Anyway, on with the show.

Edited March 2, 2022 by Matthew Abate

[Namerow]

13 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Had several setbacks this month…

Setback #1.

The u-joint was a major PITA to get in and I ruined the first one putting it in, so I had to wait an additional two weeks for a replacement.

While I waited I built myself a hydraulic press. It’s really just a box my bottle jack fits in, but it does the job.

 

With that I was able to get the steering shaft back together the right way. The u-joint isn’t as nice in real life as the photo on Amazon indicated. Go figure.

 

Restaking that thing was super tough, but I got it done and nothing is moving.

—-

Setback #2.

I cannot seem to get the nuts on the tie rods that connect the lower control arms to the frame in the front of the car. Because the suspension is sagging they don’t protrude far enough, and the rubber bushings are brand new so they don’t give enough to cram it on.

This is a problem because I need my suspension to compress a bit to keep the brake lines from getting pulled taught and sitting there under tension while I do other stuff (yes they are the right length). Tightening this up will create the slack I want. Since the engine is out I have to figure out another way to get some weight on the front to settle things in place and get that tightened up. Sandbags maybe?

—-

Setback #3 (This really pissed me off).

It turns out the differential I bought that supposedly came out of a 2014 Subaru WRX STI is NOT out of an STI. If it was it would be the LSD I wanted. Instead it is open, which means it is from a WRX, Outback, or Forester. Unfortunately I’ve had it too long to complain or get any compensation.

So all that time and money I spent rebuilding it is semi-wasted.

The reason I noticed is I realized that I didn’t want a 3.9 rear end, which the STI also has. When I put the adapters in and checked the ratios this evening I noticed the sides rotated opposite directions. NOT AN LSD!!!

So what I have is an immaculate r180 with an open differential and a 3.54 ratio. Not ideal, but slightly quicker than stock. It’s essentially the same as the dif for an automatic.

Now I have to decide how much I care about having an LSD. Do I go buy the correct pumpkin from Subaru for $750? That’s a Torsten style and would be nice. Do I get a fancy aftermarket dif for over a grand? Those are helical and probably overkill. Or do I live with this thing on my bench. Easiest and cheapest but I’m the kind of person who is forever bothered by things not being “right.”

Putting my Datsun dif back in is also an option, but it would need a rebuild.

Anyway, on with the show.

I experienced similar issues when replacing the U-joints in the steering shaft for my 70 Z and, like you, butchered one of the replacements in the process of trying to install it.  I had to cut the trunnion pin off the spider before I could get it out of the yoke.  Small job.  Big PITA.

p.s. I like your 'budget' hydraulic press.  Very resourceful.

[SteveJ]

21 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Setback #2.

I cannot seem to get the nuts on the tie rods that connect the lower control arms to the frame in the front of the car. Because the suspension is sagging they don’t protrude far enough, and the rubber bushings are brand new so they don’t give enough to cram it on.

This is a problem because I need my suspension to compress a bit to keep the brake lines from getting pulled taught and sitting there under tension while I do other stuff (yes they are the right length). Tightening this up will create the slack I want. Since the engine is out I have to figure out another way to get some weight on the front to settle things in place and get that tightened up. Sandbags maybe?

Do you think you could fit in a set of spring compressors like this to get the suspension to compress? https://www.harborfreight.com/macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-set-63262.html

Photos of how you are trying to do it would help with getting suggestions. Is the engine in the car?

When I replaced front bushings a lifetime ago, I used a floor jack to lift the control arm into place. The car was on jack stands on the front. The rear wheels were sitting on the ground.

[Matthew Abate]

10 hours ago, SteveJ said:

Do you think you could fit in a set of spring compressors like this to get the suspension to compress? https://www.harborfreight.com/macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-set-63262.html

Photos of how you are trying to do it would help with getting suggestions. Is the engine in the car?

When I replaced front bushings a lifetime ago, I used a floor jack to lift the control arm into place. The car was on jack stands on the front. The rear wheels were sitting on the ground.

I have the car in four jack stands and it’s nearly empty (no engine, no interior).

I tried spring compressors but they don’t fit in the space around the spring. I also tried using four ratcheting tie down straps but it started to feel dangerous so I abandoned that route.

[SteveJ]

It sounds like you're in a tricky position unless you can tie the radiator support down to the floor or at least to something heavy. 

[Matthew Abate]

On 3/3/2022 at 6:47 AM, SteveJ said:

It sounds like you're in a tricky position unless you can tie the radiator support down to the floor or at least to something heavy. 

I was making it WAY WAY WAY more complicated than it needed to be. The bushings are rubber so they’re pretty soft. Cleaning up the threads and two carpenter’s clamps did the trick.

 

I’m going to wait until the engine is in to torque them. Right now they are just on to the nylon so I don’t have to worry about the single-use factor.

Edited March 9, 2022 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

Getting this tension rods tighter meant I could move back to the brakes. I now have a complete system between the distribution block and all four calipers.

Now I will check my torque on all of the fittings. Then I can go back to rebuilding my master cylinder and start thinking about rehabilitating my pedal box.

Edited March 10, 2022 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

So this is the next thing I’m working on. Cross your fingers that other u-joint survives the cleaning process and I don’t spiral into another repair process.

🙄

[Matthew Abate]

Back together:

 

I found this component to be a pretty simple refresh project… if you don’t try to pull the bearings or the plastic bushing out of the column as I’ve seen done in other threads. I used a variety of degreasing sprays, patience, time, and gravity to clear everything out. I think eight rounds and it was flushing out clean. Then repacked the bearings using more patience and a syringe full of grease. It took way too long but it worked.

Primer and paint were harder given the poor weather in the north east over the last several weeks. It took a full week for each coat to completely cure. And that’s in the heated garage with a dehumidifier running 24/7. Hence the drawn out timing of this process.

Edited May 9, 2022 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

Getting ready to work on installing the firewall insulation and other parts. Can anyone point me to a good thread about the sequence here? I’ve seen several threads about the overall sequence of the interior, but they all sort of gloss over this part. The specific information I’m looking for is the order for these items:

Sound deadener / Dynamat

Grommets

Heat shield/jute or similar

Black card pieces / kick panels

Wiring

Pedal Box

Steering Column

Heater Blower

Dashboard

I assume that’s the right order, but if anyone thinks differently let me know. What are the pitfalls I’m overlooking?

[Matthew Abate]

Okay, I've decided to start a new build thread dedicated to this wiring project. I think it is going to be complicated enough to necessitate its own space. Here's the link: 

 

[Matthew Abate]

While I’m working on the wiring I have also been reconditioning parts. Here’s the pedal box:

 

New foot pads and brake switch. Otherwise just reconditioned original parts.