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1973 Rebuild


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I installed my rear glass today and I have a problem. I can’t get the window to seat so that the two top corners are adequately covered by the weatherstripping.

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You can see above that there’s a sizable gap. This is the right side, which is the worse of the two.

Am I stuck pulling the glass and doing this over again, or is there a trick I don’t know?

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Good call on the metal trim. I didn’t realize it needed to go in before the window was installed because the several videos I watched of people doing this didn’t do that.

I got the seal from Z Car Depot a while ago and threw out the bag with the house trays on Friday, so I don’t know which one it is.

I pulled the window out this morning and have a tube of silicone lubricant coming in the mail tomorrow. I’ll put the metal trim on first and try again when I’m better prepared.

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I bought a Precision gasket and installed the trim before putting the glass in the car.  I used soapy water and a tiny dull screwdriver to work the trim into the rubber.  It wasn't that hard, but time consuming.  I didn't have any issues with the corners not closing up.  Try not to get that silicone on your paint.

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33 minutes ago, Freez74 said:

I bought a Precision gasket and installed the trim before putting the glass in the car.  I used soapy water and a tiny dull screwdriver to work the trim into the rubber.  It wasn't that hard, but time consuming.  I didn't have any issues with the corners not closing up.  Try not to get that silicone on your paint.

Tools from this kit may be more gentle on the paint than an old screwdriver. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/auto-body-trim/trim-and-molding-tool-set-5-pc-64126.html

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Okay, I’ve pulled the window twice and am still having this problem with the top corners. Maybe this seal sucks. It has the right number that corresponds with the Precision seal, but it didn’t come in one of their green bags, so I’m not certain. It was part of a Z Car Depot kit and they aren’t great about fixing issues like this.

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Edited by Matthew Abate
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I know you can’t have anything in backwards, the seal has molded corners at the top and you just make it fit around the lower corners, which is why it doesn’t worth a good gal darn…..  That is one nasty seal for sure.  Does that seal have four molded corners? 

I just pulled three precision rear window gaskets, all are top corner molded only. The OEM gasket has 4 moulded corners, which I feel you absolutely need to get those bottom corners to fit right. You might have to glue those corners into the curve of the hatch somehow. I’ve had this issue too but never this bad. 

BTW. Corn starch is now my absolute favorite rubber lube for window seal installs.  And it works on putting the trim in the groove afterward too.  So slick, so dry, so easy to clean up, so cheap.

Edited by zKars
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It’s molded in the top corners for sure. The bottom ones have a curve but it’s not pronounced, so you could say they’re molded sort of.

I don’t know how you would glue in the corners. It would require pressure keeping it against the hatch and the window should supply that. I guess you could glue it in without the window, fit the rest of the seal around the glass, and then complete the installation, but I am betting that would be REALLY tough to pull off.

I think I’m going to have to leave this in for now and redo it later with a new seal. I need to get on to other things.

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Check with vintage rubber and see if their seal is any different. I’ve only installed one of those and don’t recall if the seal was molded more in those lower corners or not. I get your frustration. 

Just looking for an OEM gasket.

Courtesy Nissan on ebay?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275142887420

 

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Edited by zKars
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I reached out to Z Car Depot about it and they pointed me to the OEM seal as well. It’s a Nissan part, so I am wondering if that is the best option. Pissed I have to drop another pile of cash on this.

 

BTW, that seal is cheaper on Courtesy’s website than in their eBay auctions.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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