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1973 Rebuild


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I see now.  Spirit Garage is a Japanese company.  Funny, if you google Spirit Garage you'll get a whole different thing.

https://www.spiritgarage.com/product-group/1

Return shipping would be expensive.  Another option is to have somebody modify the headers.  Your problem is just a normal part of building your own car.

Edited by Zed Head
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I believe Spirit Garage is Eiji's company in Virginia. I assume he sources these from overseas but he might not. I am not sure you would have to level out the carb. You might. you might not. All of the critical things in an SU are centered in the body, so it might not matter. The small amount of angle I would expect in the finished product might not matter.

I do agree with the idea of deleting the water in the jacket, then grind to your hearts content

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23 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Z Car Depot has stepped yoke washers, so I’m going to check those to see what kind of leeway they would provide. I could also grind a small amount off the tab on the bottom of the manifold to compensate.

Another question I have is could these spacers be thinner at the top to angle the manifold up slightly and create more clearance. I’m thinking 3 to five degrees.

Adding a spacer between the intake manifold and cylinder head is adding to the stack up, and asking for more leaks.

The two places you say the header pipe is contacting the underside of the intake manifold don’t make sense. There is only one exhaust outlet there, and the pipe couldn’t touch the intake manifold in both places.

I would suggest you install all the studs, then then the washers (yokes), and the bolts, for both the header and intake manifold, snug them all up and see where everything winds up.

If the header still interferes with the intake manifold then the tubing is what needs adjustment, i.e. removed and replaced with a piece more appropriately bent to fit.

 

Or, you could eliminate the intake manifold heating circuit and cut away the coolant passages.

 

 

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9 hours ago, Patcon said:

Did you look at ITBs and rule them out?

Yeah, I decided not to go with fuel injection because I don’t want a computer. The car is drifting too far away from a 240z already.

46 minutes ago, dutchzcarguy said:

And your sure those Mikuni's will fit the engine with that exhaust manifold?

Well, I can’t because I don’t have them in my hands, but I’ve discussed it with a few people who have PHHs on their Zs and they said I should have the same problem. The points of contact are the #2 and #5 pipes. Because the triples manifold doesn’t have the bulge for water channel I should be okay. 🤞🏻

Edited by Matthew Abate
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1 hour ago, dutchzcarguy said:

And your sure those Mikuni's will fit the engine with that exhaust manifold?

Almost inconceivable that they would not, as that is certainly what they were designed and manufactured to work with (rather than stock Hitachi SUs).

Several people in Japan are using the Spirit Garage LHD-specific exhaust manifold on LHD Zs with Harada inlet manifolds and triple carburettors.

Should be fine, but a heat shield/drip tray would still be recommended.

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Speaking of heat shields, I noticed there are individual DCOE heat shields for webers. I’m wondering if they will fit on the PHHs, as well as if they are effective. I am guessing a single shield that spans all three is more effective, but the individual ones look nicer.

D4B82E3A-E182-4B69-8B05-A1A4094F389B.jpeg
 

50D06057-7AB9-4C1A-BA23-9C45EE5F17A6.jpeg
 

Regardless, I now get the fun and enjoyment of figuring out how I want to set these up. I have about fifty tabs open with stuff about fuel rails and air boxes. Plenty of stuff to prevent me from focusing on wiring.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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