1973 Rebuild

[inline6]

All of the locks on the car use wafers, but the wafers for the ignition are slightly different.   These are the kits I bought and their contents.  

 

The A-16-100 has both types of wafers.   The A-16-104 only has the wafers for the locks other than the ignition.

 

[Matthew Abate]

Fantastic! Thanks.

I had found a document that states 1970-83 Z cars use tumbler series P-16-151/154 for the ignition. I’m assuming from the photos and your description of the kits that the rest of the locks use P-16-141/144, right?

Where did you buy the kits?

Edited September 30 by Matthew Abate

[inline6]

Correct. 

The wafers for the ignition have a slightly convex edge on the bottom or top (can't recall which).  If you look closely, you can see that in my pictures.  If you start with two door locks that are keyed to the same key, you save yourself a fair amount of work when replacing the covers.  

The thought crossed my mind that I could sell you some of the wafers which might be a good option instead of waiting for the kits to show up for sale.  I could send you a few of each size and you could map out what you need.  Let me know what you think.  

[Matthew Abate]

I’m not sure what I would need yet. I’m looking into getting a key made from the code on the door cylinders. If that works I will know if the glove box and trunk are keyed alike. If they are then I only need to figure out the ignition. If I can’t find a code on it I’ll need new wafers. If none of this pans out I’ll need enough to do everything.

Edited September 30 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

 

Got my LED dimmer figured out. This pulse width modulator was $16 on Amazon. The brass rod in the background is a rotary knob extension I will use to make the OEM Datsun knob reach this thing once it’s buried in the dashboard. I just need to figure out how I’m going to mount it.

Edited October 7 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

I finished my LED pulse width modulator (dimmer) today. It’s pretty easy if you want to try it. Using a brass rod made it tough to work with hand files so I resorted to a bench grinder for some of it, but all you need to do is measure the length you want, grind the end into a tab to slide into the slot on the PWM control rod, and drill through them sideways so you can press in a retaining pin. It won’t stay otherwise. Sorry I forgot to photograph that part.

I fabbed up a bracket out of a strip of steel with some holes and bends in the right places and it fits exactly like the OEM rheostat.

Edited October 6 by Matthew Abate

[dmorales-bello]

Nice work. Can you post a link to the PWM?

[Matthew Abate]

4 hours ago, dmorales-bello said:

Nice work. Can you post a link to the PWM?

It’s this one, but there are many that are similar.

https://a.co/d/g0cCVne