1973 Rebuild

[grannyknot]

You've been holding out on us, nice work.

[Matthew Abate]

I broke down and bought a fuel pressure regulator by Aeromotive (the Ultra-Low Pressure model).

The more I talked to people the more it sounds like I have a fuel pressure problem that is swamping the carbs, and even if I don’t it would always be an open question.

The previous owner must have clairvoyance because there was a set of holes that perfectly fit the fuel filter bracket just aft of the stock hard point, and the dope who did my paint forgot to weld them up, so it was just a matter of moving the filter and tweaking the bracket that came in the box the use the original filter location.

Now to route the hoses.

Edited September 8 by Matthew Abate

[Matthew Abate]

What’s a good asking price for an L4 engine? I need to get rid of the one that came in my car to make some room.

I can’t vouch for it. I’ve never run it and have no info on its operating performance or condition at all. I think the head is an E30.

Also, what should I remove and save or sell separately, if anything?

 

Edited September 10 by Matthew Abate

[dutchzcarguy]

1 hour ago, Matthew Abate said:

I think the head is an E30.

That would be very special.. i think you mean E31.  (as they had standard E31 and E88 heads.)

An E30 head sits normally on a 2 liter engine out of, for example a Laurel. (A E30 would also make much to high compression on these E30 blocks.. no do not ask how i know! 🙂 )

The more parts you sell separate the more you will earn.

An engine without the external parts AND NO CLUE about the internals go for 500 euro and a good compression one for 1500?  A excellent new restored one with warranty might go for 4-5000 euro..

It might be a smart thing to do some compression testing as you could earn over a grand?

That's over here in Europe.  We often also buy a second engine for reserve.. I Know that Bart .. and me too.. have a spare.

If i where you i would dissasemble it and only sell the lower part and keep all the spare parts on a attic or so. You can always use them to swap  with someone elses parts.

Edited September 10 by dutchzcarguy

[Patcon]

I dont see much demand for L24's in the US.

I would probably strip it. Sell the head and accessories separately. Keep the odds and ends and scrap the block

[Matthew Abate]

I finally got the fuel pressure stable. There was an issue the first time I ran it with the regulator where I couldn’t get more than 2.75 psi out of it. I took it apart and cleaned it on the advice of the manufacturer and now it’s working. I’m not sure what it was because it looked pristine inside, but now I am good to go.

 

It’s still running super rough. The idle mix screws are at two turns out and it’s very rich. I’m hoping to address the jetting over the weekend, but I might not get to it.

Edited September 21 by Matthew Abate

[inline6]

On 9/10/2024 at 4:45 AM, Matthew Abate said:

What’s a good asking price for an L24 engine? I need to get rid of the one that came in my car to make some room.

I can’t vouch for it. I’ve never run it and have no info on its operating performance or condition at all. I think the head is an E30.

Also, what should I remove and save or sell separately, if anything?

Date code on that block indicates manufacture date is May 12, 1972.  Stock head at that time would be an E88.  Some parts may be of value to the stock restoration crowd.  Air galley pipe, air pump... the fuel pump if a "Nikki".  Block may be of interest to vintage racers.  E31 heads still have value as people restoring the early VIN cars need those.  

Edited September 21 by inline6

[dutchzcarguy]

18 hours ago, inline6 said:

Date code on that block indicates manufacture date is May 12, 1972.

Hé Matthew, thanks! I got a reserve block L24 and this one says 21 of may 1973!   I didn't know that there was a number on the block that indicated the day of build!  THANKS!  again. one learns everyday!  (I Knew it was a 1973 engineblock as it had flat tops on it..)

[siteunseen]

The nice paint on the block makes me think it's been rebuilt by someone that cared enough to get the correct color. I'd guess it's most likely a decent motor if it turns freely.

$500 minimum IMHO

No carbs, $300.

[Matthew Abate]

Question about my locks: what would you do to key all these locks keyed alike?

I have an off-brand ignition with no steering lock wires, a NOS 240z ignition with steering lock wires, two door cylinders, a trunk button, and a glove box button.

I only have keys for the off-brand ignition.

I know the door cylinders have a code, so I could try to get a key made for them, but I don’t know if they match the trunk or glove box. I know the NOS ignition doesn’t match anything because I bought it recently.

I have not been able to find a local locksmith so far.

I’m thinking buy new door cylinders with keys and get rekeying kits for the rest, possibly foregoing the glove box. Any better ideas?

EDIT: I found two different keys that will go into the door, glove box, and hatch locks. One says ilco X241 Suz18. The other says Curtis DA-2. It looks like both of them are left hand. The ilco will go into the ignition, too, but it doesn’t feel right. It’s sloppy and feels like I’m jamming a wire it it rather than a key. The Curtis will not go into the ignition. Neither of these keys will lock/unlock any of the locks.

Edited September 29 by Matthew Abate

[inline6]

31 minutes ago, Matthew Abate said:

Question about my locks: what would you do to key all these locks keyed alike?

I’m thinking buy new door cylinders with keys and get rekeying kits for the rest, possibly foregoing the glove box. Any better ideas?

 

I was able to find kits on eBay and rekey my locks.  I did all of them including the glove box.  In my case, I bought a new ignition lock because mine was worn... and I bought a new hath lock that came with the original black keys.  Then I rekeyed the ignition and the doors and glove box to match.  At and following posts here provide some details.  More are elsewhere in my build thread.  Here is another, for example.  
 

Be careful when buying new door cylinders as most I have seen come with their own key - they do not use the same key for both.  You have to find two locks that come with one key which seems to be rare.

 

[Matthew Abate]

Z Car Depot has door cylinders matched to one key, so I may start there. Two things I’m wondering and haven’t found answers to:

How does one order a coded key?

Which rekeying kits are correct? I’ve found places that sell ASP rekeying kits, but I’m not sure if it’s A-16-105, A-16-106, or some other kit that would work. I do know the ignition uses pins and the rest use wafers, so maybe that’s the starting point.